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Swiftflow hot water

Joined
19 Sep 2011
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Location
Powys
Country
United Kingdom
Hello all

Ok lets hope i may glean a way forward from all you helpful people!!

I have installed a quite old swiftflow 80 combination boiler, The thing runs well and still looks like new..However!! Some time ago I was not getting hot water, central heating was fine but no hot water!! as my utility sink, the fused switch for the electric to the boiler and the wall mounted boiler are all in the same proximity, I found that if i flicked the power switch off and back on , and then turned on hot tap , the boiler fired up and all was good...However.. as the hot water was flowing it would go cold (basically the flames were reverting back to standby pilot), this sort of cured itself after a few days and have had hot water since!! Until Now!! same problem but getting worse.. can still get water by on and offing power to the boiler (not sure what this does to help though) Suspecting its the flow switch as there seems to be a clicking at the bottom left of boiler were flow switch is located... what i wouldnt mind is if somebody came up with a sequence of checksto determine the proble..

All help gratefully recieved!!

Russell
 
Its easy for someone who knows how to do a continuinity check on the DHW demand switch!

In your case I do wonder if it might be a PCB fault though.

But the DHW test comes first.

Be aware the boiler is now quite old and well justified for replacement.

They also need a PROPER service every year!

Tony
 
Thanks Tony!
Misworded my post slightly!! the boiler was installed new...but is now old...

I have researched and it appears that a continuity test is needed on the pair of red wires when demanding hot water..

If someone can explain the ins and outs of this i would gladly appreciate.

Russell
 
Just last night i was running hot water, and as it was flowing the flowswitch was clicking, and as doing so i could see the burner flickering as the click...clicked...water stayed hot and burner stayed on...
IS this Faulty Flow Switch???

Oh also... I have very good flow rate at tap...Not measured it but is and as always been good!!.

Hope maybe to glean more info from u people!

Russell
 
The domestic flowswitch is immediately above the cold water inlet. I can't remember exactly, but I think it has a weighted float and a reed switch. The first thing is to check this is working. Debris coming in with the mains cold water can cause problems. If the switch is operating correctly, and you still have problems, check the wiring and then suspect the pcb. I would be reluctant to spend much money on one of these boilers now.
 
Just an update on my boiler predicament, that may be of benefit to anyone!!

Checked flow switch for continuity ( wasnt sure what this meant really, but turned off at mains, discomnnected two red wires at flowswitch and using a Voltmeter?? (okay i know there called something else) checked that when tap was turned off and prongs were againgst each wire, No reading, when water was switched on Got reading on voltmeter, CONTINUITY, hence switch operated ok. Reconnected wires

Started having a fiddle and eventually was looking at the PCB, which was unknown territory, but carefully making sure I was safe to turn electric back on i was trying to draw hot water and could easily detect that a blue squre type resistor sitting on the PCB was clicking.. a bit of poking at this with a insulated screwdriver and burner was firing up giving hot water... release screwdriver pressure, Click click burner went out..apply pressure and burner firing up again!!

Deduction as to be need new PCB
Took old one out, got sereial number..Google..>..Ebay..>..Paypal.. £44.00 + fiver express post...should be able to summarise this post with a successful repair job done...

Agree boiler is getting on a bit and needs replacing but i am very rich!!

believing true richness is not about what you have, but about what you can do without!! [/img]
 
Although not totally recommended as a DIY repair, many do manage to resolder bad joints on PCBs.

Tony
 
ah ah

Did try solder repair first off and it did work for a few goes ..but failed shortly after!!
 

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