Switched FCU off Single Spurred Socket? (Downlights)

Joined
17 Nov 2010
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Merseyside
Country
United Kingdom
http://i55.tinypic.com/2znqp1c.jpg

Can someone confirm if the wiring circled in blue will be fine to pass a Part P inspection?. I have a new build house and I wanted to add downlights in the kitchen. However I know you can't spur off a spur but is it ok to spur for downlights. Low voltage?. The rest of the wiring in the pic is orignal but other sockets will be added to the house (not enough) and I would like to get it all signed off when completed. The kitchen is fully finished so I don't wish to start removing tiles etc... There is only the single spur cooker hood socket I can get access too easily. The addition of the grid switch makes it more complicated and any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Allan
 
A spur from a spur doesn't comply with BS7671:2008, nothing to say you can't have a fused spur first in line though.
I take it you mean ELV downlights? It doesn't matter what voltage they run at, it is the wattage which you need to consider.
 
Thanks for the reply. To be honest I'm not sure of the correct term for the downlights. They are just 4 small kitchen spotlights for under cupboards from Howdens.

Are you saying I can put the fused unit in place of the cooker hood socket then take a socket and lights from this?

FCU > Socket > FCU > Lights or

FCU > Socket and Lights

I won't be doing the work myself, a qualified electrician will but he is not Part P qualified for the domestic side.

Thanks

Allan
 
Two easy option:

1. If the cookerhood spur is a single socket then change it to a double socket. Fit a switch for the lights and wire the switch to a 3amp plug.

2. Does the grid switch have a fuse associated with it. If so, change the fuse to 3amp. If it is only a 20aswitch, swop the switch for a 3a fuse. Like this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4890.html
 
Thanks guys.

I'm not sure about wiring the switch to a 3amp plug side but the grid switch does not have a fuse. If I replace the cooker hood module 20A switch with a 3amp fuse module then I assume I can't run the 13amp socket from this and then the lights without at least adding more sockets/FCU ontop of the cupboards anyway?.

I'd rather not disturb the grid side and go with the

FCU > Socket > FCU > Lights

I know it won't be as neat but the boxes will be ontop of the cupboard out of sight anyway.

Thanks

Allan
 
I'm putting new kitchen units in and have a question over the set up of the electrics. I'm not changing electrics but have come across something and wanted to check it was all ok.

The house is only a few years old and I have a similar set up in my kitchen for the cooker hood and downlights as described in the below trail.

It goes:

Consumer box > Grid Switch (on kitchen wall) > FCU > Socket for cooker hood > FCU > Down Lights.

Which the below trail confirms is ok.

However, the 2.5mm T&E going to the first FCU from the grid switch is joined together by a 30 amp junction box. Presumably its because the cable wasn't long enough to reach the FCU and the cable is behind tiles. Is the set up of having this junction box ok which is then followed by other FCU, sockets etc?

So the setup actually goes:

Consumer box > Grid Switch (on kitchen wall) > 30amp Junction Box > FCU > Socket for cooker hood > FCU > Down Lights.

Any comments appreciated.
 
Wasn't trying to hijack anyone elses post, it was to prevent repitition from those who have already given advice on a similar topic. I will start a new thread.
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top