Terminal blocks

[Ianm1981]

Hi all,

I’m new to this so bear with me please! I’m sure the answer is no but I thought I’d ask!

A friend has shown me how to wire a hive receiver into a EPH, the reason it’s there is because we have split heating zones.

Anyway I can’t get the cables to fit as there’s already too many there. My question is, can I use a higher amperage terminal block in its place? I’m assuming the block is 3A as that’s the fuse rating of the boiler, a higher amp terminal block would help fit the wires.

I’ve attached a pic if the EPH in question!

Can I do that?

Thanks all

 

[333rocky333]

Personally i would spread them over 2 of the unused connecters and link across the 2, keep the cables in there relevant pairs, they look like 15 amp connecters, bigger are fine but you dont want the wires loose in a too big hole
Alternatively cut the cores shorter so some enter the top and some enter the bottom of the existing connecters, it dont need 2 screws clamping the same core.
Also if them grey wires are neutrals they should be tagged N or marked blue

 

[oldbutnotdead]

You can, but why not use some of those spare ways (just bridge from the full blocks to empty blocks)

 

[rsgaz]

in its place?

The spacing between them won't match the existing one, so it will be tricky to get it neatly screwed into the box like it is now.

You could end up with a mess like this...

 

[Ianm1981]

Yeah that's the last thing I need it looking like!

Thank you everyone for replying so fast and with so much helpful feedback, I guess I have one more question then... At the top of the block on the left, we have live, neutral, earth, boiler return, if I was to seperate out the live and neutral cables, to an empty space, would I be risking something not working? I am guessing that they are all clamped together for a reason so the last thing I want to do is break something, or should I stick with linking with a wire from the bottom of one of them to an empty space and use that?

Thanks

Ian

 

[Ianm1981]

I just had another idea, and that is instead of using .75 flex, use 1mm flex wiring, and run 1 set out of the box into another box which I can then split with another terminal block into the two hive receivers, I am assuming that would also work?

Thanks

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Either plan will work- you need to sketch out what needs connecting to what (it would be a bit grand calling my back of envelope drawings circuit diagrams but that's what they are) then it really is as simple as it appears to be.
Make careful notes (mark cables with a sharpie or bits of PVC tape) before you start connecting/disconnecting- if it goes tits-up you can then revert back to a working state and start again (or give up and pay someone else to do it but it shouldn't come to that)

 

[Ianm1981]

Amazing, thank you, I will get it drawn up and get the parts later today. I'll keep you all updated on the progress as well just to share what I've done....

Thanks again for all the comments and advice!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

if I was to seperate out the live and neutral cables, to an empty space, would I be risking something not working?

No.

You'd be guaranteeing it.

Which is why that is not what was suggested.

should I stick with linking with a wire from the bottom of one of them to an empty space and use that?

And why that is what was suggested.

You can, but why not use some of those spare ways (just bridge from the full blocks to empty blocks)

A larger terminal strip might work.

An extra junction box linked to the existing one would work.

But bringing the unused terminals in the existing one into use would be the quickest, cheapest, and easiest solution.

 

[Ianm1981]

Thanks for that, so the good news is it’s all wired in now, the bad news is that the boiler won’t fire up....

Everything switches on but I’m getting no call for service to the boiler which is odd as the right cables are there..... anyway I’ll upload photos to show the layout we decided on as soon as I get it all working.

Thanks