Terminating PIRO

[electrospark]

I've been terminating a some Piro yesterday and just had a quick question. I'm new to terminating this cable so it was taking me ages yesterday but seems to be going to plan so far. My question is, I'm terminating 10mm 2core into an isolator board with an adaptor box and need about 600-700mm of sheath removed to be able to dress the cables into the terminals but it takes so long to strip. I have seen before people who fit the gland but the pot is not actually in the gland its way above it making less sheath to remove. I haven't doen this but would be a lot quicker for me. Is this allowed?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Lectrician]

It's allowed, but not pretty.

A foot of sheath is quick to remove, but with proprietry toold should only take 3 or 4 mins IME. Cable that has not worked hardened is far easier!

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[ColJack]

or in plain english, it works like the "key" on a tin of corned beef...

and you can get a tool for the larger MICC...

http://www.wydels.co.uk/product.asp?typeID=59&subID=237&prodID=2568

 

[Lectrician]

I have two sizes of stripper, and it does a 10mm 2 core with ease - would still do larger too.

If you only have one end to do, borrow, beg or manufacturer your own.

 

[electrospark]

or in plain english, it works like the "key" on a tin of corned beef...

and you can get a tool for the larger MICC...

http://www.wydels.co.uk/product.asp?typeID=59&subID=237&prodID=2568

Work gave me one of these rotary strippers yesterday and I had so much trouble with it I gave up. I put a new blade in it and it worked fine for a bit but then I had trouble getting it going again. Am I doing something wrong? Any tips for using it?
I ended up stripping them all with my side cutters in the end. I like the idea of manufacturing my own tool like the old T bar unless anyone has one they want to sell?

 

[EdwardCurrent]

Hi Electro.
My experience with the design of these style of 'stripper' is that the 'cutter' has to be at the exact setting for the tool to work properly(different cable, different blades). I know the 'joystripper's etc cutters are replaced so when changing the cut depth can vary. In your case I believe you don't have an old 'end' to set up the cutter ???. The threaded rod option does work, but takes patience and practice too .
Not much help I'm afraid in your case.
Good Luck however you overcome this.

Ed

 

[RF Lighting]

I've never really used the type of stripper in the link above, but with a joistripper you need to make sure the end of the pyro is cut square by either sawing it or using a ringing tool.

If it has just been cut with side cutters for example the stripper will not start properly.

Just being nosy here, but what sort of job is this on which is still using good old pyro to supply a submains?

 

[EdwardCurrent]

Pyro reminds me of churches, some military sites, old fire stations etc , but for distribution there is a housing estate near me that has a MICC from an old isolators in the garages to the C/U. An added joy when changing the C/U !
My first encounter with MICC was back in '85 when I was handed a 'roller' and led to the traywork at the 'new' north terminal at Gatwick. Jeepers that took months but the guy whom taught me inspired a respect and admiration for the bl**dy stuff !
Another dying art, like making your own set's, reducers, bends etc etc in metalwork that involves pride.
Ed

 

[RF Lighting]

I love it. I've got a little heating installation to do in MICC shortly. It's a timber building with a rodent problem

 

[333rocky333]

My ones in the van, but pretty sure the V block on that stripper can be reversed for large or small pyro.

This has to be the right way round for larger sizes.

Take time to adjust the tension first as too tight on the copper will cause you to struggle.

Once the stripped copper is long enough use the L shaped hook to peel the pyro.
As you go, once theres about 200mm of stripped copper sheath, snip it off and just keep repeating till done.

Personally I always use that large type even for 2L1.5, joistrippers I struggle with.

 

[electrospark]

I've never really used the type of stripper in the link above, but with a joistripper you need to make sure the end of the pyro is cut square by either sawing it or using a ringing tool.

If it has just been cut with side cutters for example the stripper will not start properly.

Just being nosy here, but what sort of job is this on which is still using good old pyro to supply a submains?

Thanks RF. Its Rewiring submains to an old block of flats. Why it has to be piro I don't know, I'm pressuming the building is maybe listed? Its what our consultant specified just to make my life harder. Still I'm learning a lot.

Any tips on straighening piro? (other than keep is straight when you uncoil it ) Can you get the rollers for 10mm? I have the bending tool which is good.

 

[EdwardCurrent]

Not sure if these are suitable for 10mm ??

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PYRO-MICC-PYR...tZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item335a0e41b1

but I was shocked by the ridiculous price of this one !!!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pyro-MICC-Pyr...ls_Supplies_Electrical_ET?hash=item3efcad9c9c



Maybe an intensive forearm and wrist regime in the gym would be cheaper ? (No smutty comments required )

Ed