Testing that the controller is live and working?

[Keitai]

What reading 16 ? 16 volts ?

I believe so. With setting on 600 AC on multimeter it said 16.

However, . I just tested it again (30 mins later) and now there's no current there despite the controller being on. New controller or loose connection in controller?

 

[terryplumb]

Deleted , duplicated post

 

[terryplumb]

Is the meter set correctly now? And the black lead is in COM and red lead on the right outlet, is this correct? Is the red lead in the correct place?

I think the controller might not be working. Using a voltage pen the inputting lead makes the pen light up but not output one. Where do i put probes on multi meter to check this inside controller to confirm ? View attachment 219402

View this attachment. Is this the setting you used on your multimeter ?

 

[Keitai]

View this attachment. Is this the setting you used on your multimeter ?

Did this in picture (output wire)and reading of 240 so guess controller is ok. No reading on emersion where u told me to put probes this time although before it was 16

 

[terryplumb]

If you are getting that reading NOW ,and are not getting 240 v at the live and neutral ( brown and blue ,the other end of that cable ) at the immersion end ,then there must be a break in the cable ,or you are not measuring properly.

 

[Keitai]

If you are getting that reading NOW ,and are not getting 240 v at the live and neutral ( brown and blue ,the other end of that cable ) at the immersion end ,then there must be a break in the cable ,or you are not measuring properly.

Could the wires in the controller not be screwed in tightly enough? The wire seems too thick to get easily into the screw connectors on controller. I was battling before to push them in

 

[terryplumb]

As long as some of the wires are clamped by the terminal screw ,you would get 230/240 volts at the immersion heater.
But of course you will need to re make the connections properly into their terminals.

 

[Keitai]

As long as some of the wires are clamped by the terminal screw ,you would get 230/240 volts at the immersion heater.
But of course you will need to re make the connections properly into their terminals.

Might try a new piece of wire which slots in easier to controller then rewire it to emersion.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Might try a new piece of wire which slots in easier to controller then rewire it to emersion.

Be careful, it needs to be three core and rated for 3kw/ 13amps. Heat resistant cable is usually used into the element.

[EDIT] 23amps corrected to 13amps.

 

[mattylad]

Might even like to try screwing the controller to the wall?

 

[Keitai]

Be careful, it needs to be three core and rated for 3kw/ 23amps. Heat resistant cable is usually used into the element.

Thxs. I'll be sure to make sure of that.

 

[Keitai]

Might even like to try screwing the controller to the wall?

Like this? The red is wire and purple is where controller goes

 

[Keitai]

Well it's working. Got the best cable ( can tolerate the most load) I specified the 3kw 13A capacity from electric shop. Can you just check my wiring on the immersion. The earth was awkward as it was wrapped around a bolt and nut holds it in place. It may touch the outer cover. Is this dangerous? I dont believe it is but just confirm, this is electricity I'm dealing with. If earth was to come loose, what are the consequences?

The live cable is in the thermostat however some exposed wire can be seen, does this need pushing in completely?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

TGFT!

 

[terryplumb]

You need to re do the connection of the brown ,live, conductor into the thermostat . All of the copper conductors should be inside the terminal ,and only the insulation showing outside.
The earth connection ,again ,needs to be re connected so the wires are not splayed out .
At the timer ,the cable restraint (clamp ) is missing and must be re fitted to clamp the outer sheath of the cable. Likewise on the other clamp on the other cable.