The layer between UFH heat spreader plate and floor tiles

[nanuuk]

Hi, can anyone advise if anything goes between heat spreader aluminium plates holding underfloor heating pipes and ceramic floor tiles. I understand that it is important that the floor decking is in contact with the plate to maximise output. Does it mean I can tile straight onto the spreader plates? Many thanks.

 

[midnightpumpkin]

Your adhesive won't bond to the spreader plate or hold the weight of foot traffic and tiles. You need to over board and then tile.

 

[tictic]

overboard with Brio boards...it is a timber floor constuction?.

 

[nanuuk]

Yes, the construction is made of timber joists.
Ground floor will have:
batons >> sterling board >> insulation (foam) >> insulation board >> spreader plates with pipes >> (Brio?) board >> tiles or wooden/laminate floor

First floor:
plasterboard (= garage ceiling) >> kooltherm K3 insulation >> insulation board >> spreader plates with pipes >> (Brio?) board >> wooden/laminate floor

What is Brio board? Where can I get it? I managed to find only tongued and grooved chipboard at Wickes. Would that not be good for it?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Tongued-and-Grooved-Chipboard-Flooring/invt/164516

Cheers.

 

[nanuuk]

Sorry Tictic, just found some links on Brio boards.

Thanks very much for the tip, that's the first time I've heard of them. Sound perfect for the job! Cheers.

 

[tictic]

nanuuk

dont forget you will need exspansion/movement joints between door thresholds etc and prime the boards(check with your addy mfr or call knauff tech line)..

 

[nanuuk]

I am very grateful for all your advice tictic. Have been reading loads about ufh for timber floor recently and always find something new. Wish me luck.

 

[tictic]

I am very grateful for all your advice tictic. Have been reading loads about ufh for timber floor recently and always find something new. Wish me luck.

for timber wet ufh
spec should be:
170x50 or 175x50 c16 timber joists
350-400mm c/c plus dwangs/noggins
150mm kingspan k3 or celotex supported on battens
16mm or 22mm pipes
brio boards
primer (see mfr)
adhesive
tiles(exspansion/movement joints incorperated again mfr spec)
seal tiles (if needed)
grout
seal again if needed...

best of luck mate..

 

[nanuuk]

8) d'-'

 

[nanuuk]

oh dear, ground floor joists are only 47-50 x 100 mm so won't fit all the insulation required plus ufh spreader plates. Do I have to replace the joists or is there an alternative?

 

[nanuuk]

Hi, I wonder if I have potentially another problem? Whatever I do (replace joists or possibly suspend insulation and plates on hangers) I will end up with approximately 25 - 45 mm between the earth and battens. Does the gap between the earth and battens matter or is it a recipe for some kind of a disaster i.e. battens rotting etc? Are there any recommendations for that?
Cheers.

 

[tictic]

the gap between the earth and joists will need to be 150mm(6 inches) min.

as for the 100x50 joists,what has the mfr off the wet ufh specced as the min insulation??..

they may say 80mm insulation is ok,but i would call them first..

 

[nanuuk]

tictic you are a star! the news is not ideal but it's nice to get a response I'll check with the mfc.

btw I wonder if I am wasting my time. If I have just rads and no ufh (so many obstacles are putting me off) will my feet still freeze once I've insulated the floor between the joists? chrs!

 

[tictic]

i prefer wet ufh to rads myself..

when planning your wet ufh zone or zones,you will still need at least one rad incorparated in the zone..(usually downstairs b/room.or small one in kitchen etc)..

and make sure the boiler will take the flow if not you will need to upgarde this say from a 24 to a 32..etc