Thermostat.
- Thread starter whyme!
- Start date
I think that is a volt free stat which means it just switches whichever voltage is supplied to it by a boiler or programmer but it might have a mains voltage supplied to it to make it operate. Carefully take it off the wall and see if it has 4 wires going into the back of it.
You can test it with a multi meter by checking that you have continuity across the contact terminals which make and break as you turn the knob.
You can test it with a multi meter by checking that you have continuity across the contact terminals which make and break as you turn the knob.
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Drayton, make a range of thermostats. Unfortunately for you they all look very similar from the front.
From the diagram below; If it's a RTS1,2 or 3 it will be 230V only. The RTS4, 6, 9 or 10 needs a 230V supply but the control side can be 230V or volt free.
With models RTS1, 2 or 3 - linking terminals L and 3 together would by-pass the thermostat and put the heating on.
With models RTS4, 6, 9 or 10 - linking terminals 1 and 3 would by-pass the thermostat and put the heating on.
These thermostats are generally very reliable though and there are many other components of a heating system that are less so.
From the diagram below; If it's a RTS1,2 or 3 it will be 230V only. The RTS4, 6, 9 or 10 needs a 230V supply but the control side can be 230V or volt free.
With models RTS1, 2 or 3 - linking terminals L and 3 together would by-pass the thermostat and put the heating on.
With models RTS4, 6, 9 or 10 - linking terminals 1 and 3 would by-pass the thermostat and put the heating on.
These thermostats are generally very reliable though and there are many other components of a heating system that are less so.
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