Thin stud wall required

[PE]

Hi all

Have searched through a number of useful posts on stud walls and walk in wardrobes as have never tried anything like this before.

My query is about creating a thin wall spanning about 3.3m and 2.4m high, with one single opening in the centre (no door just an opening)

Plan is to possibly use 67x38mm CLS timber for the frame and then attach mdf to create the wall. We would probably line the wall with paper and then paint finish. Would this work and what thickness and type of mdf would I require?

Would this sort of structure require studs at 400 centres or would mdf span be structurally strong enough just supported at each end?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Deluks]

Could be done with 18mm mdf, studs max 600mm centres, noggins straight through the middle.

 

[alittlerespect]

If you want a really thin wall use 25 x 50mm sawn softwood battens on edge, infill with some insulation 25mm polystyrene comes to mind - will stop the wall sounding to hollow! Then face off both sides with either 18mm ply or mdf - personally I would go for the ply as its easier to countersunk the screws, if you go for mdf I suggest you use the fire resistant version!
Construction wise I would suggest verticals at 400centres as this will give tighter sandwich construction. Overall thickness 51mm (2x18 + 1x25)

Or, if you want something a bit more robust use 50 x 50 sawn softwood at 400 centres, instead of the 25x50.

Regards

 

[PE]

Thanks for that. Could the mdf be glued or would it need to be screwed?

Would insulation be really required for a wardobe wall?

Cheers

 

[Richard C]

I may be missing something but I don’t really understand why on earth you would use MDF Or why others are recommending MDF & even ply What's wrong with using standard 12.5mm (plaster) wallboard

The timber stud can be as thin as you like & if lined both sides with 12.5mm boards is going to be far better than MDF. It’s also going to be a lot easier to cut & put up, then you can either plaster it (obviously my choice) or, if you use taper edge boards, tape, fill, sand the joins & either seal & paint directly or seal & paper.

 

[PE]

Richard,

Thanks but is mdf not structurally stronger and so require less studs and also give a better finish than non skimmed plaster board? I don't wish to skim finish plasterboard due to added cost of getting someione in to do it

I was thinking mdf would give a stronger fixing point for say rails and shelves as well, although I appreciate I could add additional noggins to brace shelves etc from

I actually got the idea from an older post on here which I cannot find now!

Appreciate all input so far as I am only going from what I have learned here

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Was it this thread where the OP really just wanted to use MDF but wasted everyones time anyway? //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=198451&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

 

[Richard C]

Thanks but is mdf not structurally stronger and so require less studs

I’ve never built one from MDF but I doubt it. Why would you have fewer studs? With 1200 wide boards your going to need studs @ 400mm centres whatever you use, along with an intermediate line of noggins, nominal @ 1200mm.

and also give a better finish than non skimmed plaster board? I don't wish to skim finish plasterboard due to added cost of getting someione in to do it

I wouldn’t think there would be much difference but both are going to look both amateurish & naff IMO. Have you thought about how you’re going to cover/hide the joins where the MDF boards butt together? & the screw heads?

I was thinking mdf would give a stronger fixing point for say rails and shelves as well, although I appreciate I could add additional noggins to brace shelves etc from

You can’t fix shelves & rails straight into MDF any more than you would attempt to do it with plasterboard. With timber stud walls, you have plan ahead & fix additional timber studs/noggins where you want to hang your shelves & rails.

I actually got the idea from an older post on here which I cannot find now!

If it’s one FMT’s linked, I think the comments give by everyone on that post speak for themselves.

 

[Deluks]

So this is to be a walk in wardrobe? In that case, plasterboard the room side and use your mdf on the inside. Then you will have something to fix your brackets and whatnot to, but the outside will still end up looking normal.

Also don't go with the mdf to save on studs! That's just penny pinching and you have to take into account the fact that mdf is 3-4 times the cost of PB.

Other (even cheaper) option is to use PB both sides, but reinforce certain areas between the studwork (behind the PB) with mdf (or as mentioned, plywood.) You will need to know in advance where your shelves and stuff are going though.

 

[PE]

Much appreciated - plasterboard it is then

Wasn;t penny pinching just wondering if it was a better route without plastering - I have been suitably shown the light thank you!!