I've heard you shouldnt take a laxative and a sleeping tablet at the same time.Bob

As a layman (i.e. non-plumber) it seems to me that the corrosion is because the cylinder or one of its connections was leaking, with the lagging masking the fact because it was absorbing the water. Would it really have been any better on plywood?
Thanks for the explanation. I wasn't aware of the reaction between concrete and copper but, now that I think about it, I do remember a friend having an underfloor central heating pipe leak because it wasn't properly lagged (in the days before factory sheathing, I presume).. . . Under the gas regulations copper gas carrying pipes should not be in contact with concrete or masonry it attacks the copper and causes it to corrode, that's why copper pipes that need to be buried in concrete have to be factory sheathed.
I've been to numerous instances of copper that wasn't sheathed and buried in concrete that's corroded and leaked, the copper is covered in excessive verdigris as it's been attacked :http://www.cement.org/learn/concrete-technology/durability/corrosion-of-embedded-materials
Gas carrying pipes should be on stand off clips rather than touch any masonry.
The cylinder wasn't leaking I noticed the corrosion all around the base and recommended it be swapped when I moved it I was suprised how bad it was, had the floor been painted prior to the cylinder been installed it might have helped.
Look at the first image ( thats the concrete floor )....where's the majority of the corrosion ? It's not around the periphery where the wet lagging according to your theory would have been. It's in the centre where the weight of water in the cylinder was forcing the steel in to firm contact with the concrete.
Is it really better on plywood you ask, believe me a million percent. This doesn't mean all plumbers put plywood down.....because they'll be long gone before a problem raises it's head.......but if your'e conscientious you just do it. . . .

I always use marine ply. I've been back to service some of the cylinders always bone dry .....you can't beat jet blue on compression joints.We put cylinders on ply in lofts - after bracing joists and spanning over a supporting wall(s), but it’s mainly just as it’s the best load bearing and support.
UV cylinders we use have a robust plastic base on them so should protect metals from contact with other surfaces that could corrode.
I can envisage a problem with putting it on ply on a concrete floor, in that there could be a leak or flood that, even when mopped up, would leave damp under the cylinder and could result in that rotting the ply over time... it’d never fully dry out.
Maybe some tiles or rubber matting would be better?!

Thanks for the explanation. I wasn't aware of the reaction between concrete and copper but, now that I think about it, I do remember a friend having an underfloor central heating pipe leak because it wasn't properly lagged (in the days before factory sheathing, I presume).
I note from the article in your link that the chemical reaction which causes the corrosion requires water in the concrete. That can be from fresh concrete, which hasn't fully dried out; from atmosphere if the concrete is not dense enough to exclude it; or from other sources such as floor-washing, spillages, or leaks. So any non-concrete base -- including a good layer of paint, as you suggest -- is the answer, and plywood is maybe the simplest.
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