Tiling my decking - where to start?!

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Hi guys,

I've just signed up to this forum, it looks like it could be a great place for information!

I want to start a project, but I'm not sure the best way to go about it. This is definitely the kind of project where I could easily bash together a quick job which would look amazing for a year and then fall apart, which is obviously something I want to avoid!

On the rear of my house there is some raised decking. It is about 6 years old, a couple of strips have got a bit loose, but generally good condition (I will try to attach some pictures).

My vision is to replace the decking with a tiled surface. I would like to remove the hand railing and extend the steps the whole width across (also tiled), to open the area out into the garden. Ideally the surface of the tiles would be raised ~50mm from the current decking to bring it to the same height as the floor inside the house. Then I could replace the patio doors with a much smarter piece of glass which opens out a lot more fully - I'd really like to create the feeling that the outside space is a continuation of a the dining room inside.

The tricky bit is the execution! I've been searching on Google and have gathered a few ideas, but I would love to hear some opinions.

I've attached a couple of pictures of under the decking. The structure looks quite strong so I would hope (though it's a pure guess) that the stiffness and weight bearing ability would be fine for tiling over?

I understand that marine plywood (or WBP plywood - what's the difference?) might be a good place to start. I could lay this over the top of the existing structure, leaving ~5mm gaps between the boards and the edges to allow for expansion. My initial idea would be to add a bunch more screws to the existing decking to stiffen it up then screw the ply over the top, but given they are a bit old, would it be better to remove the existing decking strips and screw the ply direct on to the support structure?

Some sources say I can tile on to this, but I get the feeling I would then be better skimming with a thin layer of cement, or adding cement board? I'm a bit out of my depth with this, so any suggestions or links to products would be really helpful.

Then I could tile on top of this. One source suggested drilling 6mm holes through the grout and wood approximately every metre and squirting wood sealant in to provide drainage points on the tiles. Is this a good idea? I haven't checked, but I suspect the decking is level at the time being, so adding a slope would be tricky. It worries me a little about water getting in the wood though?

Next question: the steps. How on earth would I go about creating tiled steps the whole way across? No idea where to start with this one!

Any tips from you guys would be hugely appreciated.

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looks like a great project, i too love the idea of the one level diningroom to outdoor space, really makes the deck feel part of the house.

I cant offer you any advice but i will be interested to hear the responses as i wouldnt mind doing something similar myself
 
Google : versapanel.

Its a cement based carrier board that is weather proof. Similar to the expensive small tiling boards you see in B & Q. Not as expensive and 1.2 x 2.4m sheets.
 
Google : versapanel.

Its a cement based carrier board that is weather proof. Similar to the expensive small tiling boards you see in B & Q. Not as expensive and 1.2 x 2.4m sheets.

Ah thanks, looks like a good material. How would you use it? As a single thick layer instead of the ply and cement? On top of the existing boards?
 
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Best would be doubled well screwed down and with overlapping joints if its going to have folks walking on it. I started using as a replacement for plywood. We operate on a shoreline so nothing lasts well in this environment. This stuff is brilliant and can be used for all manner of jobs outside.

I even used it on my garden room with a textured render paint.





 
Good luck with the project, and a great idea, something i considered but i laid hardwood decking instead, i will post some pics of mine here soon.

One consideration im sure you may of made already is standing water. Would be good to consider either a small gap between tile and house and also a marginal incline to prevent water pooling in the corner to assist with good drainage during times when it occassionaly rains here...

Interested to know what tiles you're using, we recently tiled our doorstep using 900x900mmx12mm slate, slightly riven but still safe in wet, not sure about ice though.

Also interested about these boards mentioned, as i too would initially thought about laying ply over and the concerns of weather and the flex. I found you really need a solid surface to stop tiles over time flexing and cracking the grout, hence this suggestion of concrete boards sounding promising.

With reference to WBP and Marine, it's the same, Marine ply used a Water Boild proof glue, see this excerpt from wikipedia:

Marine plywood[edit]Marine plywood is manufactured from durable face and core veneers, with few defects so it performs longer in humid and wet conditions and resists delaminating and fungal attack. Its construction is such that it can be used in environments where it is exposed to moisture for long periods. More recently, tropical producers have become dominant in the marine plywood market. Okoumé from Gabon is now the accepted standard for marine plywood, even though the wood is not very resistant to rot and decay. Each wood veneer will be from tropical hardwoods, have negligible core gap, limiting the chance of trapping water in the plywood and hence providing a solid and stable glue bond. It uses an exterior Water and Boil Proof (WBP) glue similar to most exterior plywoods.

Marine plywood can be graded as being compliant with BS 1088, which is a British Standard for marine plywood. There are few international standards for grading marine plywood and most of the standards are voluntary. Some marine plywood has a Lloyd's of London stamp that certifies it to be BS 1088 compliant. Some plywood is also labeled based on the wood used to manufacture it. Examples of this are Okoumé or Meranti.

Marine plywood is frequently used in the construction of docks and boats. It is much more expensive than standard plywood: the cost for a typical 4-foot by 8-foot 1/2-inch thick board is roughly $75 to $100 U.S. or around $2.50 per square foot, which is about three times as expensive as standard plywood.
 
RCM Cemboard is another manufacturer.

Had you considered paving supported on paving support pads, rather than going for a bonded system which seems open to all sorts of issue to me.
 
Ok great, tiling over a double layer of Versapanel sounds quite feasible. Any idea what sheet thickness would be suitable?

I haven't got as far as choosing tiles yet. The ones you suggested sound good, though I might go for slightly smaller tiles, probably a light grey, there are a couple of Google images below of the kind of thing I'm aiming for!

I hadn't put much thought to paving supports, but it does sound like it could be a very easy alternative - especially to get the height correct and avoid drainage issues. Something like what these guys offer looks quite close to what I'm after:
http://www.porcelainpaving.co.uk/

Can anybody start me off on how to build a staircase?!

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