Timer/controller not working

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I have an ancient Ideal boiler as part of an equally ancient system. Last week the mains fuse blew and after replacing it I found that the controller was dead. I've done various things such as changing thebattery in the controller, which confuses me a bit as it's a rechargeable battery with no way to recharge it. I assumed it trickle charged when in place. Anyway, still no go. I've tried two different new controllers to no effect. It seems that there is no power going to the control box but beyond replacing the mains fuse I don't know where else to go. The wiring on the plate looks ok. I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to central heating and any advice will be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,

Jim
 
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Not too sure what a "rechargable fuse" is but, in any case, as there are mains voltages involved I would get a professional in to look at it especially as you admit to being "pretty ignorant" about such things.
 
Jimmymack said:
it's a rechargeable fuse with no way to recharge it.
:?:

could you enlighten me on that?

picture even? (posting pic info is in forum information)
 
Sorry, not concentrating, of course it's not a rechargeable fuse, it's a rechargeable battery. Original message now corrected.
 
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What clock is it? Is there an L & N on the backplate that you can put an electrical test meter onto to see if there is power there?
 
That makes sense, I don't have a test meter to hand but it's an obvious first step, when it's pointed out to you. The new clock is a Siemens RWB2E, the old one a Wickes RWB200.
 
Ok; well the wiring should be the same...

N, L, 1, 2, 3, 4

Before wasting time by going any further; make sure you have 240v between N & L... As I would suggest this is where the problem lies.




The CHeating system should be protected by a 3A switched, fused spur.... When you say the main fuse is it this one that you refer to or the one on your main fusebox?
 
I'm referring to the one in the main fuse box which is 5A. I see on the wiring diagrams for the timer that there should be a 3A fuse but I can't figure out where it might be located. The backing plate is attached to the wall and the wires seem to come straight out of the wall into the plate. Where would the fuse be in all of this? I'm maybe thinking of this in too linear a fashion but I had imagined the timer to be the major link between the mains supply and the boiler.
 
So are you saying that the only way you can isolate the electrical supply to the heating system is to pull the main fuse from the consumer unit? :eek:

Ye gods!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Well, it looks that way as there is no other obvious fuse unless it's lurking somewhere among the jumble on the backing plate. I've only given it a quick look but I was expecting to see a fixed fuse holder. It wouldn't altogether surprise me if there wasn't one as I think the whole cast of Rawhide were involved in doing the conversion work here. But if there is no other fuse, and I'm tempted to think there still might be, then fixing the one on the main fuse board should have restored the power to the clock.
 
You need an electric meter before you go any further; I have seen a few systems wired direct into the consumer unit on their own 5A MCB so nothing surprises me these days.

There is a high chance that if there was a fused spur between the MCB and the clock; then that would still be in-tact as if the fuse was a lower amperage; it would not have blown the board and if it is of a higher amperage; the board would have cut out before the amps would have blown the fuse - If that makes sense???


So I would suggest that possibly something else might be going on here may I suggest to get someone in that knows what they're doing and that will have a leccy meter ;)
 
Thanks I'll take your advice. Last question, is this a central heating engineer problem or an electrician, or doesn't it matter?
 
Any half-decent electrician or heating will be able to do the job....

It falls inbetween two trades - Generally I would suggest a heating engineer; when you speak with them - Explain the situation and try to find out what skill-level they have in electrical diagnosis.
 

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