Toilet Bottom Entry valves - differences?

[Stevil]

Hi all,
today my toilet wouldn't stop filling. I'm guessing the entry valve has some piece of crud stuck in it. My questions are:
Is there any point in trying to clean it out or should I just go for a replacement?

Is there any problem with simply replacing the current one with a generic off the shelf piece?
eg this one from Toolstation
https://www.toolstation.com/viva-skylo-bottom-entry-fill-valve/p35993

This is what's inside right now


I have no idea if there are any specific things I need to know, though it seems like it would be a pretty straightforward job

Thanks in advance for any answers

 

[oldbuffer]

Underneath the white plastic cap on top of the valve, to the left of your picture, will be a rubber diaphragm washer. These often go hard over time and fail to work. They are replaceable, but you will need to remove the old one first to see what type you have. How you remove the cap is also valve specific, although the general principle seems to be disconnect the fill level adjuster, turn cap anti-clockwise (sometime clockwise) 1/8 to 1/4 turn and remove.

If you decide to replace the entire valve, you need to be sure the new one will physically fit. The one you quote almost certainly will, but worth checking if a Fluidmaster one with a brass shank would fit. In my opinion they are better valves.
To change the valve:
1. Water off, flush WC, remove any remaining water (sponge / wet & dry vacuum).
2. Disconnect water inlet from threaded shank of valve under WC.
3. Undo nut (usually white plastic) securing valve shank to cistern. Under cistern.
4. Remove old valve.
5. Make sure new valve is same length as old one. Many are adjustable length.
6. Remove flow restrictor(s) if on a low pressure system and as advised in manufacturer's instructions.
7. Insert new valve, with rubber seal on threaded shank between base of valve and inside of cistern. If valve is cone shaped, narrow end down.
8. Securing nut onto threaded shank. If nut has raised circle near threaded part, this goes upwards to centre valve in cistern hole.
9. Tighten nut. Firm finger tight plus 1/2 to 3/4 turn should be sufficient. Make sure valve does not rotate inside cistern as nut is tightened.
10. Reconnect water inlet to base of threaded shank. Seal should be:
10a. If rigid pipe (copper, plastic) a new 1/2" fibre washer between base of shank and inside of connector. Make sure all remnants of old washer removed.
10b. If flexible pipe (metal braided rubber) seal should already be built in to connecting nut. If not, or damaged, 1/2" rubber washer.

 

[Stevil]

Thanks for that, much appreciated, sorry it took so long to acknowledge but my DIY went to the bottom of my to do pile because of work