Top covering on concrete recommendation

[shivering]

Hi All,

Due to some crazing I have recently taken up what I believe to have been a magnesite screed that was laid on top of the concrete slab in the dining room of our 1950s built house.

My question is what product is now best to lay in its place? I have seen a number of SLCs that seem to fit the bill but would like a recommendation. The depth is anywhere upto 20mm.

The only real problem that I see facing is (that as you can see from the photos) there are 'damp spots' albeit very few of them.

In an ideal world I would rip up the whole concrete and have a new level put down however our house sits on a concrete slab due to the hilly area and therefore would make this very difficult.

Would it be a case of cutting around these spots at right angles and repairing? If this repair is more skilled who would be the best people to take a look at it? Builder/Damp Specialist?

We don't seem to have a mains pipework at that area of the house as you can see from the plans so unsure what's causing the issue in the first place. I have placed a plastic sheet over the damp looking areas in 24 hours I was able to see condensation on the underside of it.

I'm looking for a fix that will enable a new screed/compound to be laid that will ultimately not ruin wooden flooring that will sit on top...

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• shivering
• 1 Jan 2013
• 1

Untitled

• shivering
• 1 Jan 2013
• 1

Untitled

• shivering
• 1 Jan 2013
• 1

 

[dazlight]

On the magnesite floors I've taken up I've had them asphalted then smoothing compound screed then amtico or Karndean.
But if your having real wood or engineered wood then you could only float it.

 

[shivering]

On the magnesite floors I've taken up I've had them asphalted then smoothing compound screed then amtico or Karndean.
But if your having real wood or engineered wood then you could only float it.

Thanks for the reply mate. Never thought of asphalt as an alternative so definitely worth looking into.

What do you make of the darker patches? Something that would worry you? Come across anything when removing other floors? I suspect they are damp and would I be covering a problem by purely asphalting it, will the asphalt fail if I do?

 

[shivering]

On the magnesite floors I've taken up I've had them asphalted then smoothing compound screed then amtico or Karndean.
But if your having real wood or engineered wood then you could only float it.

When you say floating do you mean using products like the peel and stick solid floor underlay rather than glueing down?

 

[dazlight]

I'd say the dark patches are damp still in floor. Might dry out a bit now as its not covered.
You should be ok with Ashpalt mate but if you have high pressure of damp coming through then that could be a issue.
Really you need a damp test doing to find out the relative humidity of the base.
I mean not glueing the wood down. Floating it on insulation boards or similar.i don't do real wood but know the compression strength of Ashpalt isn't strong enough to glue wood too

 

[shivering]

I'd say the dark patches are damp still in floor. Might dry out a bit now as its not covered.
You should be ok with Ashpalt mate but if you have high pressure of damp coming through then that could be a issue.
Really you need a damp test doing to find out the relative humidity of the base.
I mean not glueing the wood down. Floating it on insulation boards or similar.i don't do real wood but know the compression strength of Ashpalt isn't strong enough to glue wood too

Thanks again! Had a look at Mastic Asphalt and looks like an interesting product. Who would be best to give me a proper damp reading, asphalt laying company or someone independant, builder/damp specialist?

 

[dazlight]

Not sure where in Birmingham you are buy know a couple of flooring speicalists there who could do it.
But a good flooring firm will have a hygrometer or hire one maybe?

 

[shivering]

Not sure where in Birmingham you are buy know a couple of flooring speicalists there who could do it.
But a good flooring firm will have a hygrometer or hire one maybe?

I'm near Halesowen. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

 

[dazlight]

Think it might be worth getting in touch with a fella I know who uses this forum called mattysupra, knows his stuff. He does a lot of wood too so will give you good advice.
He is a trainer at floorskills training centre which is near you.
So pm him him mate.

 

[shivering]

Think it might be worth getting in touch with a fella I know who uses this forum called mattysupra, knows his stuff. He does a lot of wood too so will give you good advice.
He is a trainer at floorskills training centre which is near you.
So pm him him mate.

Daz youve been a legend, thanks for all the advice Will PM him now!

 

[shivering]

Not sure where in Birmingham you are buy know a couple of flooring speicalists there who could do it.
But a good flooring firm will have a hygrometer or hire one maybe?

Any other recommendations near me fella?

 

[mattysupra]

Stanley james flooring (chris) in sheldon. He can do the floor prep but wont do the wood and you also have Hoods carpets (nick) just up the road from you. Again wont do the wood.

Both of these fitters i would rate as being in the top 20 in the U.k. Both have been in the floorlayer of the year competition a few years a go.

 

[shivering]

Stanley james flooring (chris) in sheldon. He can do the floor prep but wont do the wood and you also have Hoods carpets (nick) just up the road from you. Again wont do the wood.

Both of these fitters i would rate as being in the top 20 in the U.k. Both have been in the floorlayer of the year competition a few years a go.

Hey Matt,

Cheers for that!

What do you make of the pictures and my dilemma? Been looking at F-Ball products too aside from Dazs recommendation of Mastic Asphalt..

 

[dazlight]

What f.ball products are you looking at?
You could do
Stopgap green bag with 114 liquid screed
2 coats F75 dpm
Prime neat
Stopgap green bag with 114 liquid screed

 

[mattysupra]

as daz says.

However you need someone to assess the surrounding area as this will make a difference on if it will work.


DAZ, have a look at picture 1 + 2 that he has posted up. Hard to say of pictures but do you think there may be bonding issues? also he has removed magnesite from the sub-base so could do with strength testing before deciding on compound / screed system.