Tv signal

Thanks for the help, both tv and grammarly.
So had a good go today. Replaced the tv female wall plate, no difference. Went into loft and started disconnecting connections. Reseated then noted a red light (can’t remember label, possibly sort of some sort) so changed the Male connection and light has gone out, but less channels even now!!
Bypassed the additional slx intern tv and walk socket and no difference.
So guess I’m back to where I was
 
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You mentioned a red light. That's normally an indication that something is On, and sometimes also indicates an "ON and working correctly" status. It certainly is the way with the masthead power supplies I use; so, with that in mind, and the fact that you've got fewer channels not the red light is out, I would suggest that you may have introduced another wiring fault.

To troubleshoot this, do the following.

1) Disconnect the amp from the mains - Gives it opportunity to reset, and it will only be off for a minute or two - Unplug the connections out to the TVs/rooms
2) Reconnect the mains power - Do you have a red power light? - If the power light didn't come on, check the fuse, also try disconnecting and reconnecting the feed from the TV aerial
3) Reconnect one output to a TV/room at a time - Not the status of the red light at each stage - Stop when you get to the one that causes the light to go out - This is the plug or cable with a short - Fix it

It's easy to introduce a short when fitting a new aerial plug if just one of the strands from the braid shield touches the centre core. The filaments are thin and sometimes hard to see in less-than-ideal light.


Losing some channels but not all could indicate a few things. My first thoughts would be signal overload from some muxes (too much amplification - try an attenuator to knock the levels down), or poorly-shielded cable is acting as an aerial itself.

If I was on-site with my meter, I'd be checking the direct feed from the loft aerial, then plugging that in to the distribution amp with no outputs connected and checking each output in turn. If the dist' amp turns out to be faulty, then replace it. Once I know I've got good signal in the loft, then I'd check each aerial outlet in the various rooms. I'd finish off with the one that is the problem. Where the signal is good in other rooms but bad here, I'd bypass the aerial wall plate (in case its not shielded) and instead I'd put a plug end directly on the downlead and test from there. If that's still bad, then it's time to replace the downlead to that room.

Without a good meter - not one of the £10 ones, they're useless - and not even one of the better Fringe versions - then the most useful device you have is the Freeview tuner in a TV. Make sure it's on Digital, and then use the Manual Tuning option. Where you know which local transmitter your aerial is aligned to, then you can do directly to the frequency channel numbers for your transmissions. If not, then you can change up a channel number at a time.

Most TVs will give some kind of indication about the signal status. Generally it's signal Strength (not so important) and signal Quality (very important). Bear in mind that the TV will often overestimate on both, but it's still more useful than a £50 domestic signal meter.

A smaller TV taken in to the loft for testing purposes could tell you pretty quickly whether the troublesome room output works direct off the splitter or not; and if it does, and you have a Quality reading at 70-80%/Good then you'll know it's time to change the downlead.

If this or any other reply was helpful to you, then please do the decent thing and click the T-H-A-N-K-S button. It appears when you hover the mouse pointer near the Quote Multi-quote buttons. It costs you nothing. This is the proper way to show your thanks for the time and help someone gave you.
 
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It's Thanks... not Like, but Thanks. This isn't difficult to get right. Just hit the button a bit more to the left.
 
So it looks like the chrome cast was affecting this along with poor signal.
In the end I moved the chrome cast cable away from the coax. Also moved the Sonos speaker cable away.
Ordered the f type Male terminators but they don’t fit. Screw type instead of push.
Also tried a tv aerial which didn’t work on this tv but fine on an old one.
Guess these newer TVs are not that good
 
Newer TVs are fine if given a decent signal. That's your problem; signal, rather than the TV per se.

I think in post #5 you said you'd tried the TV in a different room and it worked fine
Forgot to say I moved the tv to the other room briefly and it works fine.
That kind of proves the point.

There are some small differences in the upper and lower limits of what TVs will find as an acceptable signal. But this is already on the very margins of those limits, so that would indicate that the signal levels are already either way under or way over what is recommended. Stay within the 45-65dB signal window and virtually all TVs will give perfect reception.

Power cables interfering with coax suggests poorly shielded coax is being used. Typically, it's the sort of cable that comes with moulded-on plug ends. The shielding can be anything from barely adequate to very poor. Unlike loose cable off the reel, you can't tell with this pre-made stuff without destroying the cable first.

This one is in the barely adequate category.

poor moulded shielding.jpg



Another issue with moulded cables is that the plug-end connection of the centre pin can break. Some will die instantly, so that's easy to spot. Others form an intermittent joint with a small gap where the break is. The thing is, the cable still works because RF effectively jumps the gap a bit like a spark in a spark plug. However, the resistance of the cable with such a gap is much higher, so the signal level reaching the TV takes a hammering.
 

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