Undercabinet Lights or what?

[Deleted2797112]

I've just moved house. It has a brand new, never been used kitchen which has been quite nicely finished except.......

In four places on the underside of the wall-mounted cabinets where the cabinets meet the wall, there are shortish lengths of wire finshed off in two cases with insulating tape and two with connector blocks. I've taken these pics:


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The 2 with the insulating tape have three wires, red, black and what I assume is an unsleeved neutral. The 2 with connector blocks don't have the neutral wire but are connected to a short lenth of 2 core (brown and blue) wire with a small (2 pin) socket at the end.

I'm assuming the wiring is for undercabinet lights? Any other thoughts? If they are for lights, I have no idea why they have been left this way given the standard of finsh in the kitchen and elsewhere. It's very odd.

Assuming they are for lights, what sort would I need to get? I looked at LEDs some time ago but if I remember correctly, they need some kind of powered driver? Are there non-LED types that could be wired straight on to these?

All suggestions gratefully received!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

and what I assume is an unsleeved neutral.

Dear God.

• http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=electrical+circuits+101
  
  
• http://kevinboone.net/electricity.html
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/domesticinstallations.html
  
  
• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:books
  
  
• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics[/list]
  
  

  The 2 with connector blocks don't have the neutral wire

  Yes they do.
  
  
  

  I'm assuming the wiring is for undercabinet lights?

  Sounds reasonable.
  
  
  

  If they are for lights, I have no idea why they have been left this way given the standard of finsh in the kitchen and elsewhere.

  The standard of finish on the cable exit points is not what I would call "nice" - holes in tiles just waiting to cut through insulation, gobs of caulk/mastic/silicone. It's sh**e, basically.
  
  
  

  Assuming they are for lights, what sort would I need to get? I looked at LEDs some time ago but if I remember correctly, they need some kind of powered driver? Are there non-LED types that could be wired straight on to these?

  Any sort of 230v lights will be OK.
  
  Judging by that plug there used to be slim (T4) fluorescent fittings similar to these:
  
  
  
  
  
  in the old kitchen.
  
  
  But please - either get an electrician to fit them or learn quite a bit more than you think you know about domestic wiring.

 

[Taylortwocities]

To expand on what BAS did not say in the above

It is very likely that the red is live, black is neutral. The unsleeved conductor is usually an earthed protective conductor. that is the standard for 230v lights.

It is just possible that it is something else

And you still have to discover how this may be switched on and off.

I agree with BAS. Get someone in who knows how to use a test meter.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

To expand on what BAS did not say in the above

It is very likely that the red is live, black is neutral. The unsleeved conductor is usually an earthed protective conductor.

Err....

• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213...com/domesticinstallations.html[/list][/QUOTE]

 

[Deleted2797112]

Sorry, I just realised what I wrote. I do know the difference between neutral and earth. It's late, I'm tired and I've been trying unsuccesfully to upload the pics most of the day so dashed off the post when it finally worked.

Thanks for the replies though. The finish really isn't that bad. Where one of the wires emerges from the wall, like you say, it needs filled to protect it from the sharp tile edges. The rest are OK and there aren't blobs or gobs! The cabinets have a pelmet (I think that's what it's called) around the lower edge so the wires are tucked away inside it and aren't visible below it.

I'll have to live with them as they are for a while. After the move, money's a bit tight and getting an electrician for undercabinets lights isn't the top priority. At least I've got some clues now for when I can afford to get them done, so thanks for the help!

 

[OwainDIYer]

I've just moved house. It has a brand new, never been used kitchen which has been quite nicely finished except.......

In four places on the underside of the wall-mounted cabinets where the cabinets meet the wall, there are shortish lengths of wire finshed off in two cases with insulating tape and two with connector blocks.

That's grossly irresponsible of the builders to release the house to you in that condition with potentially live wires poking out of the walls.

I'd like to know how it can possibly have been given an electrical installation certificate in that condition.

If the site agent is still on site then tell him you want a qualified sparky to attend imediately and make the installation safe.

A qualified sparky means one holding City and Guilds certificates which you will check along with photo id. You will also ask to see the electrical installation inspection and test certificate.

 

[Deleted2797112]

Thanks Owain. It's not a new build - sorry if I gave that impression. It's a 1930s house that's been renovated and a new kitchen, bathroom etc put in prior to selling it. I don't know who did the refurb, it was a private individual not a developer who sold it. I suppose I could find out as I guess the same safety issues apply whether it's a new build or refurb.

 

[Taylortwocities]

ANY electrical works should be accompanied by an installation cerificate.

ANY electrical works done in a bathroom or kitchen also has to be notified to the local authority and you should have a Certificate of Completion together with your house documents.

The vendor will have been asked if any recent electrical works had been done as part of the house sale process. Talk to your solicitor if he lied and ticked NO in that document.

 

[Chri5]

Would you lot use your eyes

It's old cable pre 2005 so why would the lighting require an eic?


Now there is an issue with the new refit kitchen. Seldom will the layout remain the same and that means moving sockets, cooker feeds and the like. IF new sockets were installed, if new cabling is present (op new cable is brown, blue and earth) then an eic should have been done.

BAN, state / commute directly, I suspect no one ever reads you pre built cut and paste replies which are links, not direct comment.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So damned if I do, damned if I don't.

You say people don't bother to follow links, and will only read direct comment, JohnW2 and others say I should not keep posting the same direct comments but should put them in the Wiki and just link to that.

 

[Deleted2797112]

Thanks folks. I'm going to dig out the purchase paperwork and see what was said about electrics. I'll also unscrew one of the kitchen sockets and see what colour the wiring is.

 

[Chri5]

So damned if I do, damned if I don't.

You say people don't bother to follow links, and will only read direct comment, JohnW2 and others say I should not keep posting the same direct comments but should put them in the Wiki and just link to that.

I can oly speak for myself

 

[dhutch]

Coming out of the wall like that is a bit of a bodge, as is leaving them in the state they are. I would determin that they are hard live, or if they are switched, and make sure they are all terminated in a suitable junction box, and then if your looking to replace the lights, replace them with ones with an internal switch.

You want to make is safe
You want to know whats on the other end of them
You sound like you then want new lights

Three separate things working to the final goal, but proberbly it would not be stupid to get a electrian in for an hour or so to work out where he thinks they come from, how they need terminating to make the safe, and if they can be reused to add new lights back in.


Daniel

 

[SimonH2]

And am I the only one thinking "what a b***ard cutting the earth back" in that second photo ?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

there aren't blobs or gobs!

OK - sorry - it's just that's how it looked...