We are installing a new water based underfloor heating system into a cottage we are doing up, and we have had conflicting advice from our builder, the underfloor heating material provider and the company we're buying our engineered flooring from: Our builder thinks that we have to put down 18mm chipboard to support the engineered floor, whereas the materials provider says that that may not be necessary (although their manual states that you should put a layer of chipboard down). The flooring company says that we should definitely not use any chipboard between the pipes and the engineered floor or the heat will not come through. We are completely confused. Could anybody shed some light on this for us? Many tanks!
Underfloor heating
- Thread starter newby90
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What ever is being planned, the "wood" can not simply rest on the pipes. It would have to be on joists or battens depending on sub-floor arrangement.
In this case the best way (IMO) to transfer the heat upwards is by using spreader plates which are formed aluminium-plates which carry the pipe and conduct head over a larger surface-area to the flooring surface.
Details on your engineered floor are lacking. How thick is it ?
If it is down at the 12-15 mm level, then it could not be used as a structural floor and you would need the chip-board. This however would give you 30 mm + mm of wood which would be a significant insulating layer and - once again IMO - you would have an ineffective system, or at the very least, an inefficient one.
Why can you not use a screed ?
if you got a quote from the UFH materials company, did they do so on the basis of a drawing from you ? If so they should have done a heat-loss calculation to determine the number/length of circuits required.
If you don't have them, ask them to give you this information calculated both on the basis with/without chipboard and this should enable you to see, from a heating stand-point, how much difference there is.
I would also ask them how they justify their view that no chipboard is necessary if it is specifically called for in their manual/instructions.
In this case the best way (IMO) to transfer the heat upwards is by using spreader plates which are formed aluminium-plates which carry the pipe and conduct head over a larger surface-area to the flooring surface.
Details on your engineered floor are lacking. How thick is it ?
If it is down at the 12-15 mm level, then it could not be used as a structural floor and you would need the chip-board. This however would give you 30 mm + mm of wood which would be a significant insulating layer and - once again IMO - you would have an ineffective system, or at the very least, an inefficient one.
Why can you not use a screed ?
if you got a quote from the UFH materials company, did they do so on the basis of a drawing from you ? If so they should have done a heat-loss calculation to determine the number/length of circuits required.
If you don't have them, ask them to give you this information calculated both on the basis with/without chipboard and this should enable you to see, from a heating stand-point, how much difference there is.
I would also ask them how they justify their view that no chipboard is necessary if it is specifically called for in their manual/instructions.
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Whatever you do, stay away (or let them stay away) from chipboard! Anyone who recommends this as a sound and structural (long lasting) under or subfloor has never lived on the results of this rubbish product.
If you're UFH is installed between battens and your wood-engineered is not of the load-bearing type (meaning at least 18mm thick and long enough boards to connect with at least 3 battens) you have to install load-bearing plywood first. Then preferable fully bond the wood-engineered floor to the plywood using flexible adhesive and the correct notched trowel.
If you're UFH is installed between battens and your wood-engineered is not of the load-bearing type (meaning at least 18mm thick and long enough boards to connect with at least 3 battens) you have to install load-bearing plywood first. Then preferable fully bond the wood-engineered floor to the plywood using flexible adhesive and the correct notched trowel.
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