I’ve got a leak somewhere under the concrete floor in my open vented system and get air gurgling through when the hot water fires up as well as some trickling topping up into the header tank. With the heating system being about 40 years old I’ve decided to get it completely re plumbed in a few months along with a new boiler.
In the meantime my knackered immersion heater has seized in the tank so I can’t just turn the boiler off and the water supply to the header tank.
I have two options in mind:
1) Cap flow and return on heating side leaving the existing bleed vent on each, effectively as the end of flow and start of return.
I assume the heating should also be disconnected from the controller too in case the boost button is pressed.
2) Still disconnect heating electrically then bypass the rads by connecting flow/return in the loft with a Hep2O push fit flexi pipe, again leaving an existing bleed vent. It wouldn’t be running at all, just providing a means of bypassing the heating leak and bleeding the remaining system.
Whatever gets me leak free hot water for the easiest really.
Thanks in advance.
In the meantime my knackered immersion heater has seized in the tank so I can’t just turn the boiler off and the water supply to the header tank.
I have two options in mind:
1) Cap flow and return on heating side leaving the existing bleed vent on each, effectively as the end of flow and start of return.
I assume the heating should also be disconnected from the controller too in case the boost button is pressed.
2) Still disconnect heating electrically then bypass the rads by connecting flow/return in the loft with a Hep2O push fit flexi pipe, again leaving an existing bleed vent. It wouldn’t be running at all, just providing a means of bypassing the heating leak and bleeding the remaining system.
Whatever gets me leak free hot water for the easiest really.
Thanks in advance.
