UPVC Door and Frame Installation

[Holly64]

Hello

I currently have a wooden front door and frame and I"m now toying with ideas to replace.

Would a very competent DIYer, be ok to install?

If not, which type of tadeperson would I hire, would it be a Double Glazing installer?

Many thanks

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

If not, which type of tadeperson would I hire, would it be a Double Glazing installer?

A double glazing window installer, would install a UPVC, or composite door, complete with frame. A composite door, rather more expensive are better.

 

[Holly64]

Would a competent DIYer be able to do this job?

 

[RrogerD]

Yes a DIYer could do it. I've done one.
If you're asking then I'd suggest probably not and you'd be best to get a trades-person in. They know what they're doing without all of the research plus, would have the tools to hand, could probably get hold of materials cheaper than a DIYer and more importantly, could do it all quicker. You don't want to be left without a door and/or frame for any length of time.

 

[johnny2007]

A local double glazing company will supply the door and fit for better price you can get yourself and save you a lot of hassle.

 

[carmanmemoranda]

And with warranty if any issues arise

 

[RrogerD]

A local double glazing company will supply the door and fit for better price you can get yourself and save you a lot of hassle.

I don't disagree at all.
I bought mine second-hand for £80, door with frame, panes and lock with keys though.

 

[johnny2007]

In that case, fit it yourself.
The most difficult part will be removing the existing frame without breaking plaster.
Make sure you cut all the silicone around before pulling it off.
If the frame is embedded in the floor, cut a section in the vertical parts and then remove; even a sharp hand saw will do for that.
Use expanding foam in the new frame gaps, go very easy on that because it really expands!
Once cured, cut excess, if any, and then fit appropriate trim.
They sell trims of all sizes.
And most importantly, before fixing the frame, make sure it's perfectly square.
I usually fix the 2 middle screws of vertical parts of the frame, making sure top and bottom are perfectly levelled so frame is square.
I can then tilt the frame and make it perfectly levelled before fixing top and bottom screws.
3 screws vertical, 2 screws horizontal part of the frame (top and bottom).
If you have a concrete lintel, don't put any screws in it; the expanding foam and the other screws will hold it firm.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Would a competent DIYer be able to do this job?

That, depends on your competence... I, with an unskilled assistant, replaced all of my single glazing 40 years ago, with DG. It took me a while, over a couple of weekends. Ten years ago, when I was looking at renewing the lot, I decided it would be worth paying for them to be installed by the supplier. The supplier managed to get the whole job done, in a couple of days, while I was out at work.

 

[RrogerD]

In that case, fit it yourself.
The most difficult part will be removing the existing frame without breaking plaster.
Make sure you cut all the silicone around before pulling it off.
If the frame is embedded in the floor, cut a section in the vertical parts and then remove; even a sharp hand saw will do for that.
Use expanding foam in the new frame gaps, go very easy on that because it really expands!
Once cured, cut excess, if any, and then fit appropriate trim.
They sell trims of all sizes.
And most importantly, before fixing the frame, make sure it's perfectly square.
I usually fix the 2 middle screws of vertical parts of the frame, making sure top and bottom are perfectly levelled so frame is square.
I can then tilt the frame and make it perfectly levelled before fixing top and bottom screws.
3 screws vertical, 2 screws horizontal part of the frame (top and bottom).
If you have a concrete lintel, don't put any screws in it; the expanding foam and the other screws will hold it firm.

I did

 

[ronniecabers]

3 screws vertical, 2 screws horizontal part of the frame (top and bottom).

And a good window/ doors fitter would put in more screws in the vertical!

If we fitted with only 3 screws in the vertical we would fail an Inspection , at least five in the vertical is the accepted industry amount unless its a really short door, and there should always be screws within 250mm of each corner of the door frame ( horizontal differ depending on the type of threshold , and the lintel type as previously mentioned but ideally you should always get at least one in the top)

 

[Holly64]

I don't disagree at all.
I bought mine second-hand for £80, door with frame, panes and lock with keys though.

Thanks, I have a friend who is a very competent DIYer - I just didn't want to ask him to help out, if it was a specialist job. I'm pretty certain he will have all the tools too!

I've seen doors and frames, brand new or fitted and removed on the same day (because they are opened the wrong way). Prices range from 300 - 500. Supply and fit from a local company is over £1K. A bit out of my budget at the moment

 

[Holly64]

Thanks everyone for the info. Its nice to know I now have options. Now just to decide whether to do it or not!

 

[Holly64]

In that case, fit it yourself.
The most difficult part will be removing the existing frame without breaking plaster.
Make sure you cut all the silicone around before pulling it off.
If the frame is embedded in the floor, cut a section in the vertical parts and then remove; even a sharp hand saw will do for that.
Use expanding foam in the new frame gaps, go very easy on that because it really expands!
Once cured, cut excess, if any, and then fit appropriate trim.
They sell trims of all sizes.
And most importantly, before fixing the frame, make sure it's perfectly square.
I usually fix the 2 middle screws of vertical parts of the frame, making sure top and bottom are perfectly levelled so frame is square.
I can then tilt the frame and make it perfectly levelled before fixing top and bottom screws.
3 screws vertical, 2 screws horizontal part of the frame (top and bottom).
If you have a concrete lintel, don't put any screws in it; the expanding foam and the other screws will hold it firm.

Thanks for all these tips. My competent DIYer is a plaster and dryliner by trade, so it won't be a problem sorting the plaster if it comes to it.

 

[ronniecabers]

Doorwins aluminium windows and doors were the best, they suggested we do a search for 'double glazing doctor' who can do any type of windows, doors and roof light work and to be honest its made my own business run smoother since knowing the inside secret which saves a ton of money aswell

Jeez that sounds like an advert and a half! Hopefully the moderators will see this!