uPVC Door height/Cill Help Needed

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Hi All
I am currently building an extension myself and think i may have done something wrong.

I am putting in a rear door (uPvc) which is the door and the cill.

I have installed it at 110mm from the concrete floor height.

I have to put down 70mm Celotex on the concrete base, plus 22mm for the floor, and then laminate/underlay etc which would be 9mm for the laminate and 5mm for the underlay would give me 96mm.

The question here is, when everything is installed, should the cill be see or should the cill be sited underneath the visible flooring? Currently the cill will be visible around 14mm

My uPVC front door, i cannot see the cill from the inside/.

No problem lowering it

Lee
 
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Ideally though as low as you can get without the door sash fouling the floor or mat if you ever have one, it also leaves you with less of a threshold to step over but I see no problem with 14mm
 
I have to put down 70mm Celotex on the concrete base, plus 22mm for the floor, and then laminate/underlay etc which would be 9mm for the laminate and 5mm for the underlay would give me 96mm.

No screed?
 
Lee,
On mine I put the inside cill too low to the floor thinking it looked better.

But it meant that bottom edge of door was too close to floor so had issue laying underlay/laminate floor as in fitting it was thicker than I measured, I could not use a mat and even meant that things like small stones got trapped under the opening door and the floor.

In the end I had to refit and lift the door (auggh) so that there is now a 12mm cill on inside providing a 12mm gap between door and floor.
Now it does not look as good, but works much much better.


Notch,
For interest, why does it need screed?
I have concrete slab, on which I put small wood runners/joists, between which I filled with Kingspan, and topped with 22mm flooring sheets. Then covered with floating laminate floor.

SFK
 
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Notch,
For interest, why does it need screed?
I have concrete slab, on which I put small wood runners/joists, between which I filled with Kingspan, and topped with 22mm flooring sheets. Then covered with floating laminate floor.

it doesnt necessarily need screed, its possible to fit a floating floor -ie 22mm flooring straight over insulation, however that requires the concrete to be dead level -which is pretty unlikely if its concrete oversite -it is usually only tamped roughly level.
 
Notch,
Got it with thanks. You are about talking about a screed on the concrte to flatten the concrete slab surface.
Mine was relatively flat, but I forgot to say that I used spacers between the concrete and 'joists' where the concrete had a dip to ensure the joists top surface was flat and level for the laminate.
SFK
 
Thanks for the tips, i think i will wait until i have finished felting and tiling the roof, put the floor down (celotex is going in between joists with the 22mm on top) and then see what the level looks like
 

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