Urgent - cold baby in cold house...

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Hi everyone - we have a Trianco 110 HE Combi, two pipe setup, that has been working fine for about 6 weeks, then got low on oil, was refilled yesterday - and worked fine until last night.

I reset the timings on the timer so that it wasn't running 24/7 which it has been since our first born arrived home 12.11 and after that, the central heating hasn't come on. I've reset the timer, re-entered the original times, used it on continuous, boost, advance, pre set everything and it won't do a thing. When I ran the hot tap, the water was cold for ages (with the boiler fired and running - so the burner isn't locking out) then eventually I got hot water, and the central heating came on. The C/H pump was red hot, as is the pipe coming from inside to the central heating (if the makes sense, top right hand side of boiler). Then about an hour later it stopped again. Got up, ran the tap again, but the burner didn't fire. No burner lockout, so after some investigation I found the thermal lockout reset under the control box. This would not reset, until I left the whole lot switched off for about 2 hours. It then reset, but the C/H still would not come on, just a faint buzz from the C/H pump.

Ran the tap again, lots of cold water, burner fired up and eventually got very hot water, but then the thermal lockout tripped again.

(edit) I've taken the C/H pump off and checked that it spins, and it's fine - as it worked earlier this morning with it's usual quiet hum, so I don't think it's that causing the problem, I just don't know how to dissipate the heat that's built up and seems to be causing the thermo lockout to trip.

Does anyone one know what is causing this thermal lockout to trip, why the pipe on the top RHS is still so hot when everything else has cooled down, and how I can get it to work again today as our little one really doesn't need to be getting cold....

Thanks in advance...
 
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by the sound of things you are either low on system water ,got an air lock or your pump has stopped.get a towel, put under pump and take the big screw out of the middle of the pump and see if the shaft is spinning, if its not you might be able to free it with by spinning it with a screwdriver .thats if its got 240v going to it.
 
by the sound of things you are either low on system water ,got an air lock or your pump has stopped.get a towel, put under pump and take the big screw out of the middle of the pump and see if the shaft is spinning, if its not you might be able to free it with by spinning it with a screwdriver .thats if its got 240v going to it.

Thanks for the reply - step back, here comes a dumb question.....

How do I know if I have low system water level, and what happens if I overfill it, will it just blow out of the PRV?

And - if I have an air lock how would I go about getting rid of it?
 
The whole question is if the pump is working. You need to find that out as suggested above.

For more info see the FAQ on this site.

Tony
 
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The whole question is if the pump is working. You need to find that out as suggested above.

For more info see the FAQ on this site.

Tony

Hi Tony - there is 223/226V to the pump, and I've taken the screw plug out of the front, there was a pphutt of air and water, then a small trickle of water. The impeller seems to move freely, as it did when I took the whole pump off earlier this morning....

Update of much wierdness - to me anyway....

Checked the impeller with hex type key, and it moved fine. Took the bleed screw out of the front of the C/H pump, after a gasp of air, and a trickle of water, I was then getting a fine spray coming out of it. With the boiler thermostat set to 0 the pump started, I heard the water moving around the system, and the rads are now piping hot, but the burner hasn't fired at all. It may be the impeller was stuck, but if I can get it moving again and the rads on like this for the next day or so, then I will get a new one tomorrow. BTW - system pressure is showing as 2 bar.
 
But does the pump spin when it is powered up?

You can have power to the pump, and a free running rotor, but if the motor capacitor has failed, the pump will just buzz and get hot without actually doing any pumping.
 
But does the pump spin when it is powered up?

You can have power to the pump, and a free running rotor, but if the motor capacitor has failed, the pump will just buzz and get hot without actually doing any pumping.

Hi - do you know if the capacitor can be replaced on it's own? Thanks.
 

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