Vaillant Ecotec S.07 code

0.5 is too low. The water will never go round the rads.

Put it to 3.5 or 4 and follow the FAQ on balancing.

D.40 should gradually start to rise with the burner symbol displayed as the heating warms up.

D41 will start to rise later.

The brass cap under the red cap only goes in the following:

0.2 furthest out
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6 fuly screwed in

What should I set to?

Apologies - I was thinking of that valves brother which is numbered 1 - 6.

Leave it on 0.4 for now.

S53 shows the boiler is not happy with the flow through the heat exchanger.

If you open the bypass too much the heating will never work. Open it too little and the boiler will drop out to an error.

Sounds like your system is a mess and needs a clean out.

THe only other thing I can think of right now is to drop D.0 to say 6 and see how it behaves then.

No problems at all. I can't thank you enough for your held and guidance.

I've left the house now and switched everything off.

Tomorrow I will turn the bypass to 0.4 and set d0 to 6 (reduction from 13). What should I expect here?

When you said it needs a clean, do u mean boiler or whole central heating system?

Thnks
 
The whole lot should be done. Might not be cheap... but the boiler should be salvageable unless it is making horrid noises.

With a lower D.0 setting the boiler should stay on s.4 for longer and D40 should reach the setting you choose on the lower knob - which should be 65 or 70 depending on your cylinder thermostat on the tank.

At this stage you are looking for hot rads. Maybe a bigger pump.
 
The whole lot should be done. Might not be cheap... but the boiler should be salvageable unless it is making horrid noises.

With a lower D.0 setting the boiler should stay on s.4 for longer and D40 should reach the setting you choose on the lower knob - which should be 65 or 70 depending on your cylinder thermostat on the tank.

At this stage you are looking for hot rads. Maybe a bigger pump.

Boiler seems to be ok sounding. Nothing serious from it.

What is the rough cost for a full clean? Could you do this as well?

Do you mean get a bigger pump and not clean? Or clean And get a bigger pump?

Thx
 
I could do it, but you are a long way from my operating area. If you like I can ask in our closed section of the forum.

The cost of a full clean could between £350 and £600 depending on time, severity and of course any remedial plumbing required.

Do not use any of the numpties you've had so far :!:
 
I could do it, but you are a long way from my operating area. If you like I can ask in our closed section of the forum.

The cost of a full clean could between £350 and £600 depending on time, severity and of course any remedial plumbing required.

Do not use any of the numpties you've had so far :!:

Hahah lol

I'm based in Guildford, Surrey so anyone that knows the stuff and fixes the issue for the family then I'm happy.

I've just had new carpets and flooring laid as well so hopefully they won't get ruined.

Is this another power flush I need? And boiler clean?

You sure you don't want to come my way? There's a beer waiting ;)
 
I could do it, but you are a long way from my operating area. If you like I can ask in our closed section of the forum.

The cost of a full clean could between £350 and £600 depending on time, severity and of course any remedial plumbing required.

Do not use any of the numpties you've had so far :!:

Also I will test your d0 trick tomorrow. However I guess this is not a Lon term fix and will prob break the boiler in the long term..

What pump you recommend? Cause the radiators in the living room take ages to heat up. One of he radiators upstairs makes a banging sound as well. Is this all linked to the same issue?
 
The problem is partly due to the time of year. Do you have thermostatic valves? If so they are likely to be closed down even when set to max. In which case you need to remove the heads.


From the sound of it; you haven't actually had a power flush yet- despite appearances.

Pump wise you should be okay. In theory. But a search of the forum and your S codes will show how fussy these boilers are with poor quality installation.

Ignore that until the other issues are addressed.
 
Changing d.0 to a lower value will not harm the boiler in any way.


Long term the heating will be slow to respond and may not be effective in the depths of winter.
 
The problem is partly due to the time of year. Do you have thermostatic valves? If so they are likely to be closed down even when set to max. In which case you need to remove the heads.


From the sound of it; you haven't actually had a power flush yet- despite appearances.

Pump wise you should be okay. In theory. But a search of the forum and your S codes will show how fussy these boilers are with poor quality installation.

Ignore that until the other issues are addressed.

Ahhh yes I do have a thermostat downstairs.

Could this be the prob? Or is it still a blockage issue?

If so I will go for the full clean out as u recommended. Want this sorted for sure. Hopefully this will sort the other little issues.

Son yeah, if you fancy taking a trip or know anyone decent that's more local then deffo pls let me know.

Many many thanks
 
I was referring to thermostats on each radiator. For these tests they need to be removed.

The one on the wall needs to be cranked right up for these tests.

Before committing to spending anything more than a diagnostic charge (check conditions carefully) with anyone carry out the checks and tests already posted on the forum.

My office hours contact details are in my profile if you wish; but it will be a while before i could fit a visit that far away in. There are just as worthy as well as much more worthy engineers close to you on the forum.
 
Rather than jumping to conclusions you need a proper diagnostic visit.

Some rads being slow to warm up could mean it needs balancing.

I do hope its not a microbore system! The rads are supplied by 15 mm tube?

Tony
 

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