Vaillant Turbomax 242/282 Problems Cont'd

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Ok i have changed the diverter valve, the auto air valve, the secondary heat exchanger, the small pipe between the d/v & the flow switch and still the blooming boiler cuts out after a short time leaving me without any hot water. Could it be a temp sensor cutting it out? i'm getting desperate now as most of the tricky stuff has been replaced for new items? Any help/ ideas would be welcome
cheers
Andy
 
time to call in Vaillant methinks, you've tried and failed. 01773 828100
 
hi, i was hoping for the final solution. lol but i think a call will have to be made
anyone else?
cheers
Andy
 
ok i replaced the flow switch/unit and the bloody thing still shuts down after a while. just a point, if the temp gauge is low it fires and continues to work until the temp gauge is 2/3 of the way up, when it cuts out the red light comes on on the ignition but does not flash. There is still an orange light on the heating. Does this help to diagnose anything?
cheers
Andy
 
roodini";p="1048209 said:
ok i replaced the flow switch/unit and the b****y thing still shuts down after a while. just a point, if the temp gauge is low it fires and continues to work until the temp gauge is 2/3 of the way up, when it cuts out the red light comes on on the ignition but does not flash. There is still an orange light on the heating. Does this help to diagnose anything?
cheers
Andy[/quot

try changing the pcb, might has well as its the only thing you aint changed.

have you checked the flame sensor
 
Hiya, thanks for the reply, how many sensors are there and would it be worth changing them? do they often fail? cheers
ps is there only 1 pcb ?
Andy
 
here's one for those in the know, the original part number for the pcb is 13-0438, but has it been superceded by 13-0448, i ask as i know the original diverter valve was superceded? can anyone help
cheers
Andy
 
Anyone ? can someone tell me the part number of the correct pcb for the 242/282? also if i was to change the sensors would it be wise to change them all?
cheers
Andy
 
Hi Kev, i have the turbomax 242/282. It suffers from the red ignition light persistantly showing. when it does this there is no hot water. when it is reset it fires up and for a while all works ok. then it shuts down & the red light shows but there is an orange light on the heating. i have replaced the diverter valve complete new unit. the dhw heat exchanger, the small pipe between the div valve and the pump flow swith. the pump flow switch, the aav, and although the hot water flows more freely and the boiler seems to stay on longer between trip outs it still locks out. i am stumped at what it could be. Please can you help?
cheers
Andy
 
the turbomax had a horrible problem of when it shuts down because it reaches temperature it doesn't let the air pressure switch drop out (even though the fan stops) so it won't let the pcb go through the ignition sequence again and you get a lock out light. It's worth a look if you can catch it doing it. APS is over the back at the top, you don't even have to take any covers off! I usually test for this fault by taking one of the electric connections off the APS, introduce a demand for heat and then when the fan runs reconnect the wire, crude I know but foolproof.
 
Always start with the aps as stated black ones are junk, white huba are ok. You know there are status codes on this boiler to check where it's failing?
 
hi guys thanks for your help, i am no plumberbut have had a good ole bash at this thing and have had more luck than the local so called specialists who give me a blank look when i mention things? i will try the aps is this the round unit at the top of the boiler?
cheers
Andy
 
Always start with the aps as stated black ones are junk, white huba are ok. You know there are status codes on this boiler to check where it's failing?
I think he has the original turbomax with the black front so no status codes and no black aps.

To the OP.
Locking out during pump operation:
Caused by DP switch not making, switch could be faulty, tubes could be blocked(should be first port of call before replacing switch), where tube connects above pump is a venturi which can block up also in rare occurences(b1tch to get to and clear out). Pump or heat exchanger could also cause this but are usually more obvious.
Locking out during ignition:
Check ignition gas rate, spark and sensing electrodes are clean and small metal plate is fitted between burners to encourage cross lighting.
As far as replacing parts I would start with the black modureg on the gas valve, and failing that control pcb.

You might be best getting in vaillant if your local engineers are so useless. Some of these checks should only be done by a competent RGI.

micky
 

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