Valves and Leaks

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Radiator valve extension tail goes into the RAD
TRV tail goes into the Radiator valve extension tail.
That correct?

Don't mean to be awkward just trying to get some answers which is much appreciated.
 
The tail is the threaded part that goes into the rad.

Now that I know you've changed your rads, check that both radiator valves are open on each radiator and then try your boiler again
 
Both open to max and still same it sounds as tho its gonna kick in tho...stupid question here because I fitted a new bleed valve to one RAD today ans its crap for bleeding tiny hole that hardly anything comes out of (I dont get that? why so small). Anyway I want to put an older one back on that bleeds better if that makes sense as there may be trapped air in that RAD. Can I turn off the CW on that RAD and undo the TRV to change the bleed cap at the top and to redo the connection? or will water still come up from the pipe if I dont empty the boiler first?
Thanks
 
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If your TRV has a positive stop, usually marked 0 then you should be able to shut that valve and the lock shield side to change the bleed vent.

If you have a snow flake on the TRV instead of the 0 then you should remove the head and fit the cap that should have come supplied with it to shut it off.

Something is definitely odd here if your having trouble bleeding a rad on a sealed system/ combi
 
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I only noticed how slow the water came out the RAD when I fitted the new bleed valve, the hole on the new one is tiny...the other water come out of the same rate...so its down to the new bleed valve, whay do they make them so small a hole I dont know but the old will will act the same as the others as it did before I took it off.

I have a thermostat on this RAD so I can turn to 0. The other end I can turn off to stop the CW then I can undo the TRV, reseal and change the top bleed valve to the old one, least I know that will bleed ok.

That make sense? I will turn the water off at the mains just to be safe.
 
Don't undo the TRV, you will get wet!

You will get a little water out when you undo the vent.

You don't need to turn your mains off, it isn't connected to your heating other than for filling.

The bleed hole doesn't need to be big, ad long ad a little water comes out, jobs done
 
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ok mate but thought I could drain the RAD if both turned off then redo the leak when Im there...sure Ive done it that way before...but take your point
Thanks
 
You could drain therad and then do both jobs at once, if your just re doing the joint between the valve and radiator.

You don't need to drain the whole rad if you were only doing the bleed vent
 
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I know what a TRV is, but what is a RAD? ;)

The tail is the bit with a male thread at one end that goes into the rad/radiator and a swivel nut (1/2" or 3/4") that goes onto the valve, be it a TRV, WH (wheelhead) or LS (lockshield). Some swivel nuts are nut and olive joints, some are a union connections.
 
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Ok makes sense I got it :)

I've noticed now after getting all the air out that RAD the pump is turning better and I hear it more, the bolier kicked in and started but stopped really quick too, seems to be an air lock thingy...since bleed RAD pump defo more prominent...one thing I do know is when the boiler is about to fire up I hear a run of water then bingo its alive...does that mean anything? is the pump mucky?

Either pump spinning better or red hot water making noise behind t, the pump is too hot to touch I know that much.
 
Not sure if anyone is looking at this post now but Ive noticed when the hot water is on a noise comes from the boiler like a rush of air kind of a snort bagpipe exhale sound? the pressure is at 1 bar...does this mean anything? trapped air in system or??

If anyone can advise its appreciated.

thanks
 

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