Vapour barrier cold flat roof bathroom

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Help please, sorry a bit long but trying to give all the info I know.

Have just "finished" redecorating a small (2 x 3 metre) upstairs bathroom including tiling floor to ceiling around the bath. In doing so I replaced part of the ceiling (about 1 x 1 metre), the bit I took down had bowed from what look like a water leak in the roof - investigation showed, before my occupation, the roof has been repaired (partially replaced) and looks now in generally good nick.

The room is finished all but for final painting the ceiling and untiled walls.

Whilst generally browsing around the web including this site, I note the comments on vapour barriers - just before I felt sick!

Plaster board ceiling, vapour barrier, insulation, replaced a bit - oh b-----!
When taking the old damaged board down I noticed that it was foil backed , but true to form like a good Diyer, I never thought anything of it and but back the normal unbacked stuff along with its (50mm thick)insulation. (mistake number 1!). The roof timbers looked fine including the underside of the top ply although there might have been a little black mold growth (mistake number 2 for not looking more carefully!). As I say it is a flat roof, I now know that it is a cold construction, only roof joist high, fully enclosed I can't get in there to see whats going on!

There is some opportunity for air flow across the underside of the roof through spaces left on the facias.

The bathroom also has three downlighter spot lights fitted to the ceiling - these have rubber washers fitted between the light fitting and ceiling and have glass (screw in) covers over the bulbs (again with rubber washers). They are not above the bath/shower (and not in the bit I replaced). The insulation around these areas is 100mm kingspan which has been cut back well away from the lights (evidence the the ceiling has been partially replaced before?). Having unscrewed one of these it smells a bit damp up there!

Overall I think a vapour barrier is needed - but how to fit one is the problem without fetching the ceiling down! If I under clad the ceiling, (poly sheet then new taped board) I then interfere with the new tiling. I am trying to find another way and am looking for ideas please!

I have thought of painting with Zinsser primer sealer which the manufacturer say forms a vapour barrier, but does it? Oil based paint, undercoat - will it work? What about aluminium foil to the underside of the ceiling - I've tried a bit with PVA and it seems to stick - then coat with metal primer then emulsion. Any thoughts, ideas, or shall I just cut my throat? :(
 
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i am not an expert on this so i can only tell you my experience on my flat roof.

i don't have a vapour barrier and i only have the normal plasterboard. it's not insulated and been up for probably 10 yrs no trouble.

then water poured in. i got a roofer in that i know and trust who advised that most problems are due to the outer skin. he refelted and says to call him again in 10yrs. he also said he repaired the flashing (which needs regular watching as they can be prone to failing).

suggest you make sure the outer skin is in good condition by getting a few local quotes (preferably by way of word of mouth). i say this in that as you've pointed out - access from inside to locate the fault is impossible without removing the whole ceiling.
 
a 'cold' roof requires ventilation.

a 'warm' roof does not.

yours is a cold roof and requires ventilation.
 
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Hi

Thanks for the replies. I've had a good look at the outside and it looks good. Decided the best route: -

- to take part of the ceiling down (near eaves) mainly to check circulation (Anyone able to tell me how I know if its sufficient?).

- sort out any problems I find, check al timbers treat them with cuprinol. If any signs of problems with outer roof, get a quote and get it done.

- remove inset lights - I'm convinced these are a bad idea and will promote condensation on the underside of the (cold) roof

- fit polythene vapour barrier across entire ceiling.

- over board ceiling tape and fill.

- paint with anti-condensation

- fit new (flush mounted lights.

- finish!

Grateful for comments on this route - any other suggestions?
 

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