Just turn it on to try it, what you are testing is that the HW zone valve is actually closing when the controls ask it to, it is common for them to failDHW? Central heating on, in this weather, will it work? Or do I just turn it on at the clock?
Just turn it on to try it, what you are testing is that the HW zone valve is actually closing when the controls ask it to, it is common for them to failDHW? Central heating on, in this weather, will it work? Or do I just turn it on at the clock?
Just turn it on to try it, what you are testing is that the HW zone valve is actually closing when the controls ask it to, it is common for them to failDHW? Central heating on, in this weather, will it work? Or do I just turn it on at the clock?
Sorry, what would make what worse? So I need thermostatic mixers? Some of my taps are mixing taps (non thermostat types) should I still need these other mixers?
Lowering the thermostat would make the water hotter.
Just turn it on to try it, what you are testing is that the HW zone valve is actually closing when the controls ask it to, it is common for them to fail
Getting back to your cylinder thermostat - you can easily tell whether the cylinder is up to temperature (or the thermostat working) by turning it and noting at what setting the thermostat clicks.
How does this work? I’m intrigued.
Heat rises and the element or heating coil does not go all the way to the bottom of the tank, so bottom third of it will and should remain progressively cooler the lower down you go. The lower down you place the 'stat, the less representative it is of the temperature at the top, so it will struggle to raise the temperature. Ideal position is between 1/3 and 1/2 up from the bottom.
Ah, I actually meant I lowered the temperature, not the position. The position has remained constant at approx 1/3 from cylinder.
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