viessman/opentherm/evohome/pandora poor DHW

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hi
I have a DPS pandora heatbank 2005 vintage with DHW plate heat exchanger driven by pump from the heatbank water, primary coil fed from boiler, secondary coil fed from solar thermal, sealed pressurised boiler circuit (expansion built into the top of the pandora) , S-plan plus.With my previous 1990's vintage non-condensing gas boiler driving it, I never had any problems with recovery times or large availability of DHW, running the store at 70deg with this system. The old boiler would run at 80deg or so output all the time, and it got the job done.

I've recently upgraded the system thus:
viessman vt100 wb1b 26kw boiler, honeywell evohome HR92 on every rad (18 of them) evohome DHW stat and controller (single zone valve for HW, the two CH zone valves removed at honeywell recommendation), feeding honeywell opentherm bridge that controls the boiler. The CH system works extremely well, the boiler runs at full blast when the house is cold and all the rads come on, and modulates down nicely when the house is warm, the evohome gives me nice control in every room. all very nice.

however. The DHW is now rubbish. the reheat time from cold (e.g. been off for a week) is a couple of hours at least. fortunately I can use the evohome to switch it on when on the motorway well in advance of getting home!

One key fact is I cannot set an achievable heatbank internal temp of higher than 64 . what happens if DHW only is on, CH is off, the boiler temp very slowly goes up (burner is usually on power level 1, less than a degree a minute) , seems to be tracking the return temp coming up (I believe the viessman tries to maintain a 20 deg delta), hits approx 75 for a minute at most, then it switches off the burner and drops down to 65-67 ish water going round in circles . with the burner OFF (never comes back on). Thus with a setpoint of 64 I can at least achieve a shutdown, this 65 degree water , after about 20 minutes more, gets the store to 64 and it switches off.
If I set the bank temp to the 70 recommended by DPS, it never gets there. and the effect of only having 64 in the heatbank is that I have less DHW, and can run out in the middle of running a bath...
worse, when I have the CH on, the cool water coming back from the rads seems to make the boiler run at low flow temps, and low power which actually cool the heatbank down if the zone valve is open. The system control never seems to be able to (in human terms) say "we need hot water, we need it now, so run at full power please". I have never seen the boiler run full blast for more than a few seconds based on the DHW demand. And because of all the above, recovery time is crap - if it the heatbank needs to recover whilst the CH is in cool low power mode, it frequently never achieves it (it in fact often cools down), it will only do so once all CH has gone off.

I have had ongoing discussions with my installers since it went in as I have not been happy with the change (from DHW point of view). however not really got anywhere yet.

now had a recommendation from honeywell to put master zone valves back on , and implement interlock using the evohome controls to effectively do Y-plan, i.e. shut all CH down when DHW demands. This seems like a workaround at best, and doesn't deal with the core issue of why my boiler temps won't go up fast and stay up.

Is there something about condensing boiler design that isn't suited to recovering a DHW load to a high temp quickly? I understand that the return temp has to be low for condensing, but why should a low return temp mean a low flow temp ? why can't the fact that we have a large DHW demand tell the boiler "yes your return may be at 30, but please, give us full power on the burner and flow at 75+ and just get on with it"? or is there something not setup right? At the moment I feel like my nice heatbank has been ruined by the introduction of the viessman condenser.

can anyone provide learned advice please?
thanks
 
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You can't use the heat bank for OT heating and hot water. You need to decouple the heating from the store and use the store purely for hot water.

In short.

You should have sought advice first. ;)

Either bin the OpenTherm or change the heat bank to a regular unvented cylinder.

The boiler type is not the problem.
 
Once the heating system is disconnected from the store, you can then use a diverter valve and hot water kit from Viessmann to link the Evohome to the boiler and get the system running as intended.

It is pretty simple to do once you understand how thermal stores work and what the Opentherm controller is trying to achieve.

Ironically the boiler you have is probably one of the best on the market at the moment for the setup you are aiming for.
 
My one caveat here is that I am not 100% up on the Viessmann hot water kit, but the boiler has to know what it is doing, and Evohome's implementation of OT has no specific output for hot water.
 
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Opentherm can be a nightmare, I refuse to use it.

Viessmann 1B1B open vent, I assume? Viessmann's internal logic can be a PIA and can end up modulating boiler down as you describe. With the addition of OT I'm not surprised the thing has a mind of its own. Sometimes less is more.

Personally, I would disconnect the Evo OT bridge from the boiler, turn off all the HR92s and pin the Pandora motorised valve open. Send a PL to the Viessmann enable on the 230v AC board and see what happens.

Turn the volume knob up all the way on the WB1B for 75C, and then see if the Pandora heats up quicker without constantly modulating down.

If it does, buy a couple of BDR91s, set Evo up as Boiler Relay on one and HW relay on the other. Chuck the OT stuff away or Ebay.


PS: Anyone specifying this particular mix of products is either brave or stupid. I'd want to try it on my own system before I sold it. Unlikely as I don't have a Viessmann, or any gas for that matter. OT isn't as compatible as people think.
 
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on one and HW relay on the other.

This is where the boiler needs the dedicated hot water thingamejiggy AS WELL, receiving the signal from the hot water BDR, to give it a command to go hell for leather rather than all conservative "heating mode".

I was playing with OT thermal stores a few years ago but lost interest when DPS went belly up due to shyte management and Specflue hiked the prices up to mental levels.

It is possible, but pointless as you need a mahoosive store to allow for a certain degree of separation. Much better off with a small cylinder with fast reheat and OT for heating.


Incidentally it performance very much depends on the boiler logic as well as the controller logic. Some are better than others.
 
Viessmann interfaces are a complete pain, Dan. Best avoided. Throw another OT device like Evo into the pot and there are way too many variables.

If the installer specified this system he is a plonker, no wonder he isn't coming back. Anyone considering something 'clever', read this and learn.

Evohome is brilliant, Viessmann are good, just don't throw a third entity in between, it will end in tears. Or lukewarm water.
 
You can't use the heat bank for OT heating and hot water. You need to decouple the heating from the store and use the store purely for hot water.

In short.

You should have sought advice first. ;)

Either bin the OpenTherm or change the heat bank to a regular unvented cylinder.

The boiler type is not the problem.

the heat bank is not driving the CH, never has. Its a DPS Pandora. The water in the heatbank never moves, its indirectly heated by a coil plumbed just as though it was a cylinder. It worked perfectly well when heated by with the old non-condensing boiler that gave very hot flow temp all the time. To me, it seems the boiler and/or the open therm is the problem because together it means we don't get hot enough water for long enough to the heat bank to warm it up. And I did seek advice, from my installer, an evohome specialist.
changing the cylinder if it was to be heated in the same way would make minimal difference.
 
You can't use the heat bank for OT heating and hot water. You need to decouple the heating from the store and use the store purely for hot water.

In short.

You should have sought advice first. ;)

Either bin the OpenTherm or change the heat bank to a regular unvented cylinder.

The boiler type is not the problem.

the heat bank is not driving the CH, never has. Its a DPS Pandora. The water in the heatbank never moves, its indirectly heated by a coil plumbed just as though it was a cylinder. It worked perfectly well when heated by with the old non-condensing boiler that gave very hot flow temp all the time. To me, it seems the boiler and/or the open therm is the problem because together it means we don't get hot enough water for long enough to the heat bank to warm it up. And I did seek advice, from my installer, an evohome specialist.
changing the cylinder if it was to be heated in the same way would make minimal difference.


Read all the responses before jumping to conclusions. I forgot the difference between a heat bank and thermal store.
 
Opentherm can be a nightmare, I refuse to use it.

Viessmann 1B1B open vent, I assume? Viessmann's internal logic can be a PIA and can end up modulating boiler down as you describe. With the addition of OT I'm not surprised the thing has a mind of its own. Sometimes less is more.

Personally, I would disconnect the Evo OT bridge from the boiler, turn off all the HR92s and pin the Pandora motorised valve open. Send a PL to the Viessmann enable on the 230v AC board and see what happens.

Turn the volume knob up all the way on the WB1B for 75C, and then see if the Pandora heats up quicker without constantly modulating down.

If it does, buy a couple of BDR91s, set Evo up as Boiler Relay on one and HW relay on the other. Chuck the OT stuff away or Ebay.


PS: Anyone specifying this particular mix of products is either brave or stupid. I'd want to try it on my own system before I sold it. Unlikely as I don't have a Viessmann, or any gas for that matter. OT isn't as compatible as people think.

1b1b yes. although system is sealed /pressurised (the expansion is on top of the pandora). the knob is already on 11. I will be calling viesmann out on it as a fault next week, but was hoping to get any clues before I did so hence this post. What exactly do you mean by "PL to the viessman" ?
I have been seriously considering going away from OT control, it seems more trouble than worth, I thought the idea was that it provided optimal control rather than simple on/off but perhaps its just not enough of a standard to actually work.
 

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