Vokera 20-80 rs problem

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My daughters boiler is playing up. She lives 60 miles away so I just have the info that she tells me over the phone.

She says that sometimes the CH works for a bit then it stops. She will leave it for a bit and it might work again for a while.

They have a contract with British gas, who have had a look at it and changed the PCB, but the fault persists. They have recommended a new boiler (as they do).

On my previous visits before these problems I have noticed that the front plate with the gauge, timer and constant/timed and on/off switches is badly broken. It seems that the access door is actually hinged onto the plastic front plate, so that every time it is opened, force is put onto the plastic, hence it cracking. A bad design fault.

I am thinking of going down there in the new year just to see if there are no loose connections on the timer and switches due to the damaged plate. Is there anything else to check. I'm an electrician, and if I can make sure that the correct signals are there, on/constant etc, it should work. If it is a faulty timer or switch, I'll even fix a timer and controls in a box external to the boiler.

If I can't find anything, it will have to be a new boiler.
 
These are repairable boilers with all parts still available I think.

I assume that it works perfectly for DHW?

From the little information you/we have I think your course of action is the only one at present.

I would suggests you try by-passing the timer and seeing if it runs ok like this.

Also check the pump is working freely.
 
Found out more info. When it stops working, everything stops...heating and water.

With that in mind, does it suggest that it is nothing to do with the constant/timed switch or the timer? Perhaps the main on/off switch.

What else could it be?
 
Does she mean that all power goes off, or that the boiler goes to lockout and doesn't work?

Could be it is overheating and shutting off. Has she checked the basics like the system pressure?

It is hard enough trying to answer well enough direct to a poster, but through a 3rd party is even harder :?
 
I asked her to check the pressure, which was just under 1 bar. She cracked the valve and it went up to 1.5, so i assume that's OK.

It's hard getting info off her as she doesn't know anything about boilers, but I intend going soon to check anything out that I might pick up from these replies.
 
before i changed the boiler i would suggest a gas engineer fits a service kit which comprises of rubber diaphragms and springs for the divertor valves
 
Front panel is possibly fouling on the grid (below the bolier) that may not be secure. It should have four screws securing it to the base of the boiler. If it is distorted or broken, it can be removed without effecting boiler operation bearing in mind live electrical connection can then be accessed with possible danger to those unaware.

Can your daughter feel any draught from the flue pipe when boiler is idle?

Can she hear any noise like slow turning fan at above?

Can she hear the fan run at high speed when a CH or HW is demanded?

Not surprised changing PCB has not made any difference.

Problems that your daughter is experiencing are due to lack of service. If a service is carried out as detailed in the manual, with replacing worn components, boiler will then be ready to give her hot water and heating once again. All boilers must be serviced (a task not undertaken by many) as required by the makers else boilers start malfunctioning. Your daughter's boiler is doing that presently.

Components in the service kit will be usefull but a few more items (tail piece, fan gasket and a few more 3/4" washer etc) will be needed.
 

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