Vokera Compact 28 and external programmer thermostat

[colinmac]

Hi. I have a Vokera Compact 28 where the manual timeclock's auto setting doesn't seem to be working, and it is always on.

Rather than try to fix it I'd prefer to go with a new external controller, and the current favourite is the Salus RT510RF+.

What isn't clear is if the switch circuit should be at 230v or if it should be left voltage-free. The installation manual doesn't really give any clues at all.

I read elsewhere that the Compact series all have 230v switching, but I'd welcome confirmation one way or another.

 

[RandomGrinch]

What isn't clear is if the switch circuit should be at 230v or if it should be left voltage-free. The installation manual doesn't really give any clues at all.

I read elsewhere that the Compact series all have 230v switching, but I'd welcome confirmation one way or another.

Hi,

I'm only a DIY'er, not a gas pro, so may be very wrong!

But my reading of the diagram, is that the switching may be 230V, but that voltage would be supplied by the boiler.
The thermostat would act purely as a switch.

I hope that makes sense

 

[colinmac]

Hi,

I'm only a DIY'er, not a gas pro, so may be very wrong!

But my reading of the diagram, is that the switching may be 230V, but that voltage would be supplied by the boiler.
The thermostat would act purely as a switch.

I hope that makes sense

Yes, the 230V supply may be connected off-diagram to the common terminal of the switch. But I'd expect it to have a removable link at the connector strip in that case. The external programmer has the option of 230V or voltage-free to suit the boiler, so one approach is the start with voltage-free and if that doesn't work then connect to 230v. But hopefully someone will know for sure.

 

[RandomGrinch]

Yes, the 230V supply may be connected off-diagram to the common terminal of the switch. But I'd expect it to have a removable link at the connector strip in that case. The external programmer has the option of 230V or voltage-free to suit the boiler, so one approach is the start with voltage-free and if that doesn't work then connect to 230v. But hopefully someone will know for sure.

It's also an easy enough proposition to test out.
With the power off, bridge the terminals; if when the power is reinstated, the C/H comes on (after a couple of minutes!), then you have your answer

 

[CBW]

start with voltage-free and if that doesn't work then connect to 230v.

Voltage free means the voltage is applied to terminal, so can take 24v up to 230v. (https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/faq/what-does-volt-free-switching-mean/)

If you’ve not already bought a Salus, advice is steer clear, they’re not the best.

 

[ianmcd]

I read elsewhere that the Compact series all have 230v switching, but I'd welcome confirmation one way or another

No that is wrong some only have 24v swiching and if you want 240v you buy an additional relay

 

[RandomGrinch]

(https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/faq/what-does-volt-free-switching-mean/)

Sorry
I'm afraid that the information in that link is a bit 'confused'!
A better description may be:
https://ensupport.getconnected.honeywellhome.com/s/article/What-does-volt-free-switching-mean