Wall mounted boiler frame not flush with wall at top

I would pull firmly on it to test the strength of the mounting bracket fixing to the wall.

But as I would never fit bracket screws like that the question of me returning to inspect it would not occur.

Are you honestly suggesting that someone that doesn't know how to control an escape of gas should start pulling at a gas appliance to try and dislodge it?
 
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I would pull firmly on it to test the strength of the mounting bracket fixing to the wall. But that what I would do and I am gas registered and know how to manage the situation.

The OP has quite rightly wanted to call back the installer to check it.

On my own installation I would use three screws with a third in the centre knowing that any two would still safely support the boiler.

But that comes from having worked for the BBC where all the engineering was designed to be fully redundant.

That made it virtually foolproof. Although there was a problem about 1987 when a glycol pump at Crystal Palace failed and the shift staff were unable to make the standby work. It turned out that from installation the "A" and "B" pumps had been cross wired so that the "B" was in fact the "A". No one had ever noticed that.
 
I would pull firmly on it to test the strength of the mounting bracket fixing to the wall. But that what I would do and I am gas registered and know how to manage the situation.

:ROFLMAO::D:LOL::cry:

Thats a good method tony. Personally I prefer to grip the top of the boiler and do a few pull ups. If I can manage 4 then I know the boiler is secure and I can leave the job happy in the knowledge that I have beaten my record of 3;)

On my own installation I would use three screws with a third in the centre knowing that any two would still safely support the boiler

You've obviously never hung a frame for a greenstar junior Tony!

I'd like to see where you would put that centre screw in?
 
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I would pull firmly on it to test the strength of the mounting bracket fixing to the wall. But that what I would do and I am gas registered and know how to manage the situation.

:ROFLMAO::D:LOL::cry:

Thats a good method tony. Personally I prefer to grip the top of the boiler and do a few pull ups. If I can manage 4 then I know the boiler is secure and I can leave the job happy in the knowledge that I have beaten my record of 3;)

On my own installation I would use three screws with a third in the centre knowing that any two would still safely support the boiler

You've obviously never hung a frame for a greenstar junior Tony!

I'd like to see where you would put that centre screw in?

I did ask but Tony was lost to find location of third screw:ROFLMAO:
 
I wouldn't advise doing any kind diy work on or around the boiler. "Is the boiler safe" that is impossible for me to make a judgment on as I haven't made an inspection of the appliance.

If you feel the appliance is putting life and property at risk then the only two courses of action are 1.. Call the original installer back and explain you aren't happy with the installation work, or 2.. Call Gas Safe and ask for an inspection on the installation as you have concerns regarding safety. Both will cost you nothing, and put the worries you have to rest. Although this tread is interesting, asking for advise on a forum won't solve anything nor will carrying out diy work with regards to a gas appliance. Leave gas work to professionals, we do it all day everyday so we know what we're talking about. If you are unhappy with any gas work or what a fitter has told you please contact gas safe it's what they are there for. Believe me if the installation engineer is truly unsafe then you'll be doing everyone a favour.
 
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To add to this.. I fit around 120-150 Worcester boilers a year. All products have some form of metal wall jig/frame that is fixed with between 6 and 12 screws. I prefer to use 10x2's or 10x3's. If the jig is installed on to lat and plaster 12 screws would be used, if this fixing doesn't go to plan or the jig doesn't feel strong then ply is first screwed to the lat and plaster wall peppered with screws to hit vertical support timbers and lattice work. Plaster board walls are delt with using a different method. The clearances stated in the manufactures instructions should be used with regards to a cupboard. But we don't live in an ideal world and sometimes things are tight. If the expansion vessel needed attention and it was more work than it was worth to make it accessible then an external one would be fitted under the boiler and the faulty one left in place. One last thing, Worcester wall hung boilers no longer required a heat resistant board and are ok to go straight onto ply.
 
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I always like to use THREE mounting bolts so that no coming off the wall would ever happen with anything that I ever fitted.
Were you not asking for advise in the CC a little while ago with regard to fixing a boiler to a stud partition wall???

Do you ever stop??
 
there was a problem when a glycol pump at Crystal Palace failed and the shift staff were unable to make the standby work. It turned out that from installation the "A" and "B" pumps had been cross wired so that the "B" was in fact the "A". No one had ever noticed that.
Well done Tony as I guess it was a real head scratcher.
Tis no wonder why you're classed as one of the best in the business .....fookin awesome..
 
I prefer to fit good quality boilers!

Do they not say a bad workman blames his tools?:ROFLMAO:

What makes a boiler bad I ask you. It is purely a personal preference based on likes and dislikes. Granted some boilers are more difficult to work on but it make them bad?
 
Cheers for the replies folks...so I'm being a bit melodramatic thinking it could fall off and cause a gas leak or even worse....

It has been like that since 2013...

I'm taking the boxed in cabinet down and to be sure it's secure
To add to this.. I fit around 120-150 Worcester boilers a year. All products have some form of metal wall jig/frame that is fixed with between 6 and 12 screws. I prefer to use 10x2's or 10x3's. If the jig is installed on to lat and plaster 12 screws would be used, if this fixing doesn't go to plan or the jig doesn't feel strong then ply is first screwed to the lat and plaster wall peppered with screws to hit vertical support timbers and lattice work. Plaster board walls are delt with using a different method. The clearances stated in the manufactures instructions should be used with regards to a cupboard. But we don't live in an ideal world and sometimes things are tight. If the expansion vessel needed attention and it was more work than it was worth to make it accessible then an external one would be fitted under the boiler and the faulty one left in place. One last thing, Worcester wall hung boilers no longer required a heat resistant board and are ok to go straight onto ply.

Thanks for this mate - very helpful.

I'm not in the trade (obv
 
The guys who installed the boiler came round this morning and inspected it and said the frame was solid and wasn't going anywhere. They said the some of the plaster was blown but screws were tight and there was 2 top 2 middle and 2 bottom.

As I mentioned one of them is the uncle of one of my missus best mates, they have both been in the trade over 40 years each so if they say it's sound and isn't going anywhere that's good enough for me.

They also said leave the boxed in cabinet for now - it's tight but as long as they can get the cover off for servicing etc then don't worry about it.
 
The guys who installed the boiler came round this morning and inspected it and said the frame was solid and wasn't going anywhere. They said the some of the plaster was blown but screws were tight and there was 2 top 2 middle and 2 bottom.

As I mentioned one of them is the uncle of one of my missus best mates, they have both been in the trade over 40 years each so if they say it's sound and isn't going anywhere that's good enough for me.

They also said leave the boxed in cabinet for now - it's tight but as long as they can get the cover off for servicing etc then don't worry about it.


I would get second opinion, especially left screw
 
So if it was there since 2013 then how has it been serviced during 2014 and 2015 ?

Did the question of removing the cupboard not come up then?

Tony
 
It was put in Dec 2013 and serviced last year. Access to it was fine. They said cupboard / boxing in is tight but all components they need to access or servicing etc were at the front so no probs. There's a lot a lot of space above and below boiler to access pipe work.

To replace boiler or major works then the cupboard will need to come down though.
 
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