Wall Plate & Joist Advice

[RobH71]

Ok I am getting close to fitting my joists in my build but I need some advice.

I think I am going down the route of a wall plate and hangers but I could do with some tips on fitting the wall plate. Its approximately 6.5m long so two pieces of 8 X 2 should suffice. I guess coach bolts to fix but how do i get the plate up and drill through the wood and blocks to fit ?

 

[Scarlet Pimpernel]

Ok I am getting close to fitting my joists in my build but I need some advice.

I think I am going down the route of a wall plate and hangers but I could do with some tips on fitting the wall plate. Its approximately 6.5m long so two pieces of 8 X 2 should suffice. I guess coach bolts to fix but how do i get the plate up and drill through the wood and blocks to fit ?

You don't, you use the proper brackets

https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-roll-edge-restraint-strap-bend-500-x-100mm-5-pack/85398

Or similar.
And do a half-lap joint for the two pieces of timber.

 

[RobH71]

Sorry I should of said that the walls I need to hang the joists from are existing. So I need to go wall plate or hangers fixed straight to blockwork.

 

[kingandy2nd]

Do you mean Ledger plate not wall plate?

 

[RobH71]

Yea sorry I call it a wall plate but it’s a ledger. I am tempted to buy hangers that bolt straight to the blocks but others have said a ledger is an easier route.

 

[cdbe]

Personally if the course height is ok I'd slot the joints and use masonry hangers. Otherwise, brown plugs and wood screws, or Rawl bolts, or those fancy resin anchors if it's soft blockwork. Rest it on a couple of 6" nails hammered into the blockwork or sit it on 2 lengths of timber leant against the wall, temporarily fix with one fixing at each end and drill the rest of the holes.
This is my one man method, probably a lot easier if you have a man at each end. If you're a bit anal like me you'll mark up the joist positions and cut the two ledgers so you don't end up with a hanger at, or close to where they meet.

 

[johnny2007]

Fix it first with 3 brown plugs and screws, then when happy about position, drill through the wood with a cheap wood bit, then sds, then anchor and resin.
Unless you have a multi material drill bit, then you can just go through wood and masonry.
You can put anchors next to the plugs (couple of inches) or take them out and replace with anchors.

 

[RobH71]

Do regs state it has to be anchors and resin as opposed to coach bolts or similar ?

 

[RobH71]

I mean mechanical anchors/through bolts not coach bolts

 

[johnny2007]

I don't think so, but i prefer a belt and brace approach so I don't have to go back to a job that needs doing only once in a 100 years.
For the sake of £20 difference it's not worth it in my opinion.
Then of course there are happy go lucky builders I've come across who use nail gun and gripfill for the same job.

 

[cdbe]

I believe the regulations would just say that whatever you do must be suitable to carry the load, it's your building inspector you'll have to convince. What's on the other side of the wall? It would be easy to bolt straight through with some threaded bar if you can access the other side.

 

[RobH71]

Two existing walls one being the solid house wall and the other a cavity wall that will be rendered. No big issue with either through bolts or resin really but through bolts seem less of a faf.

I go resin anchor I guess they would need to be about 170 mm with a 100mm in the wall or should I go through and in to outside skin.

 

[johnny2007]

No, just 75mm through the inner leaf is more than plenty.
Once you've measured the first bar, cut all the others at same length.
Once all in place if you're fussy, go around with angle grinder to make them flat but not necessary.
I use red threadlock on the nuts (did i mention I like belt and brace?)

 

[RobH71]

12 mm ?