Wall plugs for tiled plasterboard

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Which is the best nylon wall plugs for tiled plasterboard? I need maximum pull-out strength, and I need it cheap and buyable locally. The plugs are for holding up heavy glass shower screen. The wall thickness is 12.5mm board + 7mm tile + the grout space. Thanks.
 
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Best option is to use a stud detector and attach to the studs. Otherwise any expanding plug will grip.
 
Make sure there is slack in hole so the plug don't push out and split tile with screw.

I'd go with plugs like above and some polymer grab mastic.
I do like Fisher plugs.
 
I am replacing what the builder used. The holes are 6mm diameter. Is the following better than RAWLPLUG RAWL-4ALL or FISCHER DUOPOWER? Given that the wall thickness is non-standard, the "barbs" on the following might not poke through the back, or does it not matter? The other two would adapt to the depth.

Where do I use the grab adhesive, on the plug?

 
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Grab adhesive Is for screen fixture rail if you feel the plugs aren't enough or for belt and braces attachment
 
The screen has a U frame that goes on the wall. The mating surface is normally sealed with silicone. That's strong enough I think. Anything stronger would make it impossible to take the U frame off again. There may not be a need to take it off, but, you never know.
 
Settled on Fischer UX6. It was a difficult fit for a non-yielding 6mm tile hole. The widest part of the plug was 8mm. There was serious risk of damaging the tile while hammering it in. Once in, it worked slightly better than the conventional 2 way split plugs because the plug would keep the screw perfectly perpendicular to the wall. I used a 5mm screw, once again risking breaking the tile. It was a terrifying experience, but I got lucky and nothing was damaged.

Other shower screen installers said the plug only needed to expand behind the tile and I think they are right. The silicone seal behind the u-frame then added more strength. My own analysis suggested the U-frame would spread the load to the entire frame and the entire wall area in contact with the frame.
 
I like the UX6 plugs. Provided that they don't spin, they will pull up to the back of the plasterboard as you tighten the screw.
 
back of the plasterboard as you tighten the screw.
Nope. Knotting can only happen if the wall is thin relative to the length of plug. Knotting is impossible for UX6 on a 25mm'ish thick wall. I have tested that. Jamming the plug tight behind the tile hole was all that happened.
 
Nope. Knotting can only happen if the wall is thin relative to the length of plug. Knotting is impossible for UX6 on a 25mm'ish thick wall. I have tested that. Jamming the plug tight behind the tile hole was all that happened.

That is a good point and worth mentioning given that most places only sell the 35mm long ones. That said, I think the 50mm variant would "knot" in a 25mm wall. Not 100% sure though.

 
Use deep concrete screws, screwfix do 7.5 mm ones that require a 6mm pilot hole which bites really tight in a block wall, maybe slightly larger hole in brick

Blup
 
Which ever fixing method you select and use MAKE sure you make the fixings waterproof.

My ex nearly had her legs shredded when the tiles shower wall collapsed just as she was getting out. Water had penetrated through the grout to the plasterboard - when it finally gave way a 4ftx2ft section went in many pieces. Scratched the bath as well.
 
I think the 50mm variant would "knot" in a 25mm wall.
Yes, it should. But, that would need a thin screw so that the plug material at the mouth of the hole doesn't pull the screw in resulting in a cracked tile. In user videos, it took significant force to make the knot. The force deformed the wood significantly on the screw head side. Same thing happening on a tile would crack it.

A 5mm screw is borderline too large for the UX6. This makes it impossible for a pull out without destroying the tile. Tile damage appearing would give advanced warning of the shower screen failure.


Standard plugs work fine in tile , nothing special needed .
True. But the modern plug is slightly better. It keeps the screw straight. Also, the plug is attached to the screw in the back acting as a secondary anchor should the front side fail.
 
Which ever fixing method you select and use MAKE sure you make the fixings waterproof.

My ex nearly had her legs shredded when the tiles shower wall collapsed just as she was getting out. Water had penetrated through the grout to the plasterboard - when it finally gave way a 4ftx2ft section went in many pieces. Scratched the bath as well.
That’s why you don’t construct shower enclosure with tiled plasterboard .
 

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