Wall plugs for tiled plasterboard

[opps]

Yes, it should. But, that would need a thin screw so that the plug material at the mouth of the hole doesn't pull the screw in resulting in a cracked tile. In user videos, it took significant force to make the knot. The force deformed the wood significantly on the screw head side. Same thing happening on a tile would crack it.

A 5mm screw is borderline too large for the UX6. This makes it impossible for a pull out without destroying the tile. Tile damage appearing would give advanced warning of the shower screen failure.



True. But the modern plug is slightly better. It keeps the screw straight. Also, the plug is attached to the screw in the back acting as a secondary anchor should the front side fail.

I don't understand why the tile would crack if it had been "laid" correctly (ie. with no cavity behind it).

I have to admit that, even in my own home, I have dot an dabbed tiles in the window reveal (top and sides). When someone has drilled off a dab and tightened the screw, it resulted in a/the tile cracking.

 

[DiyNutJob]

I don't understand why the tile would crack if it had been "laid" correctly (ie. with no cavity behind it).

Attempting to enlarge the hole by expansion will crack the tile. This is what happens if the screw head is forced in. Some installers even have experience of the tile cracking from the plug expanding when the expanding part isn't at the right position.

 

[foxhole]

Attempting to enlarge the hole by expansion will crack the tile. This is what happens if the screw head is forced in. Some installers even have experience of the tile cracking from the plug expanding when the expanding part isn't at the right position.

You would have to be an amateur to crack a tile while fixing to it .

 

[DiyNutJob]

You would have to be an amateur to crack a tile while fixing to it .

Yes, I am an amateur. I know nothing about plugs until midway through this thread.

Cracking is a serious risk because the force needed to form a back knot on the UX6 would be enough to crack the tile. I did not succeed forming a knot while clamping a test plug with pliers to simulate plug fixing.

 

[foxhole]

Yes, I am an amateur. I know nothing about plugs until midway through this thread.

Cracking is a serious risk because the force needed to form a back knot on the UX6 would be enough to crack the tile. I did not succeed forming a knot while clamping a test plug with pliers to simulate plug fixing.

Very minor risk , you simulation was flawed .

 

[DiyNutJob]

Very minor risk , you simulation was flawed .

Maybe, maybe not. I don't care for the risk and I am satisfied with what I have got.

 

[opps]

Attempting to enlarge the hole by expansion will crack the tile. This is what happens if the screw head is forced in. Some installers even have experience of the tile cracking from the plug expanding when the expanding part isn't at the right position.

Sorry, I still don't follow.

A cheapo expansion fitting, eg

Rawlplug Plastic Plugs 6 x 35mm 100 Pack

Order online at Screwfix.com. All-purpose, cost-effective fixing for medium and lightweight applications. Profiled body for extra grip, with anti-rotation fins. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 5 minutes.

www.screwfix.com

only has expansion "wings" half way along the length of its body. No expansion takes place in the tile. The upper part of the fitting is marginally wider than the max recommended screw (5mm). BTW, 4.5mm is the max recommended for a UX6 plug.


Plugs such as the UX6 will knot without too much torque being required. It is however important to make sure that the screw is not tightened too quickly, that can overheat the plugs and wear out the thread cut by the screw. Again, I don't see how it would damage the tile. There is no expansion at the tile end.

My earlier reference to dot and dab tiles cracking was down to the tile being pulled toward the dabbed substrate and nothing to do with expansion at the tile.

 

[DiyNutJob]

Plugs come in different sizes even when they belong to the same category. I have some cheap plugs that are loose fitting and easy to use, I have UX6s that are bigger than the hole and difficult to use, then there are plugs sized in between. Basically, using plugs without extreme care can result in disaster. When using plugs that require hammering, you may not want to hammer it all the way or you will risk hammer crack the tile. If it doesn't go all the way and you trim it short, the position of the expansion is modified. This then produces an expansion crack risk.

My gut force-meter says the force needed to knot the UX6 is unacceptably high for the tiles or the thin aluminum frame during testing, so I would not push my luck. My meter could be wrong, but I am happy to bet my wallet on it. If the tiles are pulled off by the shower screen, my wallet takes a hit. Being able to knot behind the plasterboard is only marginally better because resisting a pull of the small knot on the powdery board is really just emotionally comforting. A good anchor behind the board is only possible with those metal plugs that spread out into a wider area at the back.

Tiles, bricks, etc are brittle. I would not want to expand them or bend them.

UX6 spec changes depending on website. 4 to 5mm screw range is more likely to be accurate. Since knotting wasn't possible/acceptable, I opted for a screw on the larger end of the range. So, it will be a case of the tile staying on or getting pulled off. The plug/screw pull out will be impossible, especially when I have no expectations the tiler used cement instead of weak grout to stick the tiles on.