Warm baton method for insulation

[rreanor]

Can someone explain this method for fixing wall insulation?

I can't get my head around a)what the benefit is over IPB fixed to a baton system, and b) how batons can be fixed securely over insulation - the screws would need to be ridiculously long to get through 25mm baton + 50mm insulation + plaster and into the brick behind.

 

[Dereekoo]

Assuming IPB means insulated plasterboard I can't get my head around your layout, surely its battens fixed to wall then IPB fixed to battens or am I missing something here

 

[rreanor]

Assuming IPB means insulated plasterboard I can't get my head around your layout, surely its battens fixed to wall then IPB fixed to battens or am I missing something here

Yes that's the mechanicl fixing method which the likes of celotex advise, but the warm baton method seems to specify that the insulation is fixed to the wall first and then batons over the top of it. Makes no sense though. See previous thread below for an example. Apparently the benefit is that you don't have breaks in the vapour barrier, but if your board isn't long enough you'll have breaks in any scenario.

Warm batten fixings trouble

Hi I am insulating my utility room using the " warm batten" method. I have fitted the insulation board to the wall with some concrete screws through the batten and board onto the insulated block behind. I am disappointed by the fixings. They didn't pull in particularly tight and I was going...

www.diynot.com

 

[aobr31569]

I've used these https://thorhelical.com/insulation-fixings/fixing-insulation-to-walls/ to fix using warm batten method. The point is the fixing doesnt pull hard on the insulation so it doesnt crush it. The fixings work fine, although need a pilot hole in brick.

 

[noseall]

the screws would need to be ridiculously long

Correct.
And you can't see the masonry you are fixing into.
We're using 260mm long screws (torx head) for a warm.roof these days.

 

[rreanor]

Correct.
And you can't see the masonry you are fixing into.
We're using 260mm long screws (torx head) for a warm.roof these days.

So what are you saying, it's not the best method? Roof fixings are slightly different as it's a lot easier to screw directly into timber

 

[^woody^]

It allows for thicker insulation to be used than could be with insulated plasterboard. PIR is more efficient insulation for a given thickness than the Styrofoam typically on the back of plasterboard.

Avoids voids and interstitial damp on the wall.

 

[rreanor]

It allows for thicker insulation to be used than could be with insulated plasterboard. PIR is more efficient insulation for a given thickness than the Styrofoam typically on the back of plasterboard.

Avoids voids and interstitial damp on the wall.

Why would interstitial damp still not come through ? Surely if moisture reaches the inner leaf it'll condensate based on whether it's hitting a warm surface, regardless of void?

 

[noseall]

So what are you saying, it's not the best method?

Probably the most efficient method.
You could start by foam fixing the insulation sheets, directly to the masonry.
Then fix a broad (100mm x 25mm) batten top and bottom. Then fix your uprights between.

 

[^woody^]

Why would interstitial damp still not come through ? Surely if moisture reaches the inner leaf it'll condensate based on whether it's hitting a warm surface, regardless of void?

You are confusing penetrating damp, and interstitial damp.

Interstitial damp occurs when there are voids in the structure, so if it is a risk voids should be avoided.

Penetrating damp requires a different solution.

 

[rreanor]

You are confusing penetrating damp, and interstitial damp.

Interstitial damp occurs when there are voids in the structure, so if it is a risk voids should be avoided.

Penetrating damp requires a different solution.

On that, is it worth me cement rendering the outside? It's only a single storey small wall, and will prevent penetrating damp. Or are single skin walls meant to be left bare?

 

[^woody^]

On that, is it worth me cement rendering the outside? It's only a single storey small wall, and will prevent penetrating damp. Or are single skin walls meant to be left bare?

Rendering is a bit extreme unless you actually wanted a render finish. There is the cost and ongoing maintenence - and the risk of cracking even if done well.

You could just as well deal with penetrating moisture by lining the inner face with polythene. This is typically done on garage or out house conversions.