Water in electric shower just stopped

[Keitai]

In the middle of a shower the water just stopped, what's wrong? The switch does go in and stays in.

 

[Madrab]

Looks like there's no power, button should be lit.

Check the pull cord or outside switch and fuse.

 

[Keitai]

Looks like there's no power, button should be lit.



Which button? Usually just the two led lights- blue and red, both look lot on photo above, don't they?

This is photo of isolating electric switch in cupboard behind shower- lights on


Where's the fuse?





Check the pull cord or outside switch and fuse.

 

[terryplumb]

Either the shower unit is not getting a 230/240 volts supply ,or there is a fault within the shower ( possibly the solenoid).
You would need an electrical testing instrument to determine which it is.

 

[Madrab]

Usually the MIRA's have a light on the power button, not sure with that one though, never fitted a Play.

If it is getting power to the unit then as suggested it'll be a component failure, like the solenoid.

 

[Keitai]

Where's the solenoid?

 

[CountryFan]

View attachment 385333View attachment 385334View attachment 385335

Where's the solenoid?

The brown thing 2 up from your death stick (volt pen/stick, which FYI doesn’t prove anything other than possibly some voltage).

@Keitai - do you have a multimeter?

 

[Murdochcat]

Most faults on showers are caused by burnt neutrals.

 

[Keitai]

The brown thing 2 up from your death stick (volt pen/stick, which FYI doesn’t prove anything other than possibly some voltage).

This? Can I buy a new one?

 

[terryplumb]

Yes ,you can buy a new solenoid. But first you need to establish the voltage at the showers main terminal block between live and neutral is 230/240 volts.
The solenoids resistance can be checked with a multimeter to determine if that's at fault .

 

[Keitai]

Yes ,you can buy a new solenoid. But first you need to establish the voltage at the showers main terminal block between live and neutral is 230/240 volts.
The solenoids resistance can be checked with a multimeter to determine if that's at fault .

Have I checked solenoid with correct setting on multimeter? I did it with electricity off.

The resistance check the numbers went up then down to 0 quickly but i pressed hold quickly and got 55.3.

And correct setting for voltage and placing of probes for that?

 

[CountryFan]

Yes that appears to be a failed solenoid, should be around 4kohm.

 

[Johntheo5]

Have I checked solenoid with correct setting on multimeter? I did it with electricity off.

The resistance check the numbers went up then down to 0 quickly but i pressed hold quickly and got 55.3.

And correct setting for voltage and placing of probes for that?

View attachment 385347View attachment 385348View attachment 385349

Normal coil resistance should be ~ 3.0K to 3.5K.okms, 3000/3500 ohms), Set the resistance scale to 20K and see do youget a steany resistance reading of 3.0 to 3.5 ish, it will not read the correct resistance even on a "good" coil if set to the 200K, I have a old Triton coil in my box and it reads 3.75 on the 20K scale but on the 200K scale jumps around a bit and then reads _1 which is meaningless really.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Normal coil resistance should be ~ 3.0K to 3.5K.okms, 3000/3500 ohms), Set the resistance scale to 20K and see do youget a steany resistance reading of 3.0 to 3.5 ish, it will not read the correct resistance even on a "good" coil if set to the 200K, I have a old Triton coil in my box and it reads 3.75 on the 20K scale but on the 200K scale jumps around a bit and then reads _1 which is meaningless really.

Do you think he will understand any of that?



Andy

 

[Jurassicspark]

That is why I prefer auto ranging multimeters.