WATER NOT VERY HOT

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My boiler is in the kitchen but that's working OK, the problem I have is with the water tank located upstairs in the cuboard, its an indirect system with flow/return (pumped) with a Honeywell Y valve for the radiators, the water gets hot but I think it could be quicker, it takes about 30 mins with the boiler set on max to get the water hot, there is a thermostat on the side of the tank set at 80c, when I select the boiler to hot water this should heat up the water in the tank but it also heats the radiators, is the Y valve working?.
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Any help would be appreciated Cheers
 
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what you describe sounds like the mid pos valve is passing..........changing the head as mentioned will not cure it..you need a new valve or new internals for the exisiting valve.
 
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HarrogateGas said:
what you describe sounds like the mid pos valve is passing..........changing the head as mentioned will not cure it..you need a new valve or new internals for the exisiting valve.

I've found that 99/100 times replacing the head always cures it :)
 
HarrogateGas said:
what you describe sounds like the mid pos valve is passing..........changing the head as mentioned will not cure it..you need a new valve or new internals for the exisiting valve.

Yes I think your right, I have my suspisions of the Y valve because I'm still getting hot radiators, there is a manual setting for the Y valve I've tried this in the manual open position but no change, so I think I need a new vavle.
 
gas4you said:
HarrogateGas said:
what you describe sounds like the mid pos valve is passing..........changing the head as mentioned will not cure it..you need a new valve or new internals for the exisiting valve.

I've found that 99/100 times replacing the head always cures it :)

When you say replace the head do you mean the electricl part? or the inturnal fitiings? Cheers
 
Thanks everyone for your help, I'm off to the plumbing centre to get some bits.

THANKS AGAIN vroooOOOM
 
gas4you said:
HarrogateGas said:
what you describe sounds like the mid pos valve is passing..........changing the head as mentioned will not cure it..you need a new valve or new internals for the exisiting valve.

I've found that 99/100 times replacing the head always cures it :)


Ive found 99/100 that it doesnt........if its an early valve the honeywell rubber ball inside used to swell. The newer ones are much better but still occasionally get the same problem. I carry quite a few new internals kits for them and just bung the system and changed them.........done in about 10mins.
 
Yes - or the shaft sticks and leaks. You can stick the gubbins in from a new valve. (The two and three port repair kits are identical, though they have different part numbers. I've measured them carefully, and swapped them :confused: ).

But I do have trouble bunging systems. Even if the tank connector doesn't have internal splines which stop the seal. Some people take out a whole 3 port on bungs - beats me how. Obviously you have pump valves (sometimes), but even so.
 
Ive changed cylinders on a bung kit before , not to mention heat exchangers, unvlalved pumps and even once an entire boiler............i find it no probs and saves me a hell of a lot of time and doesnt waste that precuois inhibitor!

Its just about being brave and understanding the principle. Oh and having plenty of buckets and towels at the ready :LOL:
 
bungs are the best invention ever. cant remember the last time i drained down to change anything.......the water stops eventually :LOL:
 
Before changing valve make sure it is actually passing .Turn power to clock off then back on to make sure valve de energises. Then set to hot water only when the rads start to get warm go and feel the pipe that comes out the bottom of the valve . Hold it just to the right of the elbow as it goes through floor. If it is as hot or hotter than the rads it is passing if it is cold you have a return in the wrong place under the floor. Personally i would change the whole valve if it proves faulty..

Bungs whats up with swimming trunks an snatchin.. :LOL:
 

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