Welding set for home electrics ?

PNG

Joined
18 Dec 2011
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Lancashire
Country
United Kingdom
I recently purchased a welder "for home use".
It is an ARC-TIG 131 Inverter.
Manufacturer - Clarke. Part # 6012230.
The details listed on the the welding set are :-
5A/20.2V - 130A/25.2V
X 40% 60% 100%
I2 130A 120A 80A
U2 25.2V 24.8V 23.2V
U2 = 230V I1max = 25A I1eff = 16A
IP21.
Right now to my question - a friend says I cannot use the welding set on my dedicated 16amp fused supply to my garage.
What do I need to do to be able to use it, that is if I can use it in my garage.
Many thanks.
 
Sponsored Links
Sorry cancel that - got the wrong welder.
Looks like it requires a 32 Amp stand alone circuit.
 
You need a circuit that can supply a higher enough current that with allow the the welder to be used taking inrush current in to consideration or it will just trip the protective device.
 
Sponsored Links

They do indeed and actual state do not connect via a 13A plug

So you need a 32Amp supply, which will need at least 4mm cable depending on any de-rating factors and you will also need to consider RCD protection plus have 240v 32A 3 pin wall socket and plug.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...Index/Plugs_and_Sockets_Ind_240v_1/index.html
Sound like it's max rated at 25A, a bit confusing those MIs
At the end of the day follow the manufacturers instructions.
 
What do I need to do to be able to use it, that is if I can use it in my garage.

The first thing you NEED is permission from Electricity NorthWest to connect it, welders of any size can cause dips to the supply of other customers owing to the inrush current as the arc is struck.

It doesn't matter if the manufacturer says it is for home use, you still need this permission.

1. Electric Welders
An application for connection for welding purposes should state clearly the type, rating and supply voltage of the
welding equipment before any arrangement is made for its installation. The connection of welding equipment is subject
to the following factors that will be taken into account on receipt of an Application form.
(a) Welders for connection between phase and neutral lines (nominally 230V) can be accepted for ratings only of 5kVA and below.
(b) Welders above 5kVA rating where the connection to the customer is not at high voltage should be connected between phases of the three-phase supply (nominally 400V).
(c) Provision should be made for the correction of the power factor of the installation, which, because of the connection of welding equipment, may be unduly low.

The foregoing factors are applicable to most parts of Electricity North West’s electricity distribution network but there
may be special cases where even these factors will be subject to modification.
(d) Welders, such as resistance types, having high ratings may require a supply delivered to the premises at high
voltage and are the subject of special negotiations with Electricity North West for each individual case.
 
1) It states do not use a 13A supply.
2) It shows it with a 16A Euro plug.
3) It says max current 25A.
4) It recommends a 32A supply.
Now we all know that the sockets for commercial use come as 16, 32, 63, 128 amp and clearly to use at max a 16A is too small so of course 32A will be recommended. However one does not need to use at max settings but in real terms an 80A output needs a 16A supply and there will also be as stated a in-rush as the capacitors are charged. So using a B16 MCB the max inrush would be 80A and it is likely the charge curve of the capacitors would not allow much less. Although the 13A fuse is rated at an inrush of approx 95A so one would expect the 16A B16 MCB to pop before the 13A fuse.

So not sure as to why a 13A socket is not allowed. I would think there is a good chance of overload but that is also true of the 16A German CEE 7/4 plug and socket ("Schuko") the only real difference is the heat caused by the fuse. So I will assume that's why 13A plugs are on black list. Personally I would go for BS EN 60309-2 as used with caravans.

As to the supply of course the supply authority will want to be able to stop people using items likely to make the lights dip and flicker as it is likely they will get calls to report a problem with the supply.
 
TBH I had two of those and they were on a 13amp plug. A bit tight, but no issues.
 
As to the supply of course the supply authority will want to be able to stop people using items likely to make the lights dip and flicker as it is likely they will get calls to report a problem with the supply.

Which does open a nasty can of worms for the person using the device. A couple of years ago we were within hours of disconnecting a supply as a result of the use of a welder.
 
The other problem with "domestic" arc welding is the interference to neighbour's radio and TV reception. With analogue radio and TV it was jsut annoying crackles and pops and lots of white spots on the screen. With digital the sound and/or picture can freeze for a second or two after a burst of interference.

Even when the 240 volt power feed has the proper suppression fitted the radiation from the welding leads is still there.
 
The other problem with "domestic" arc welding is the interference to neighbour's radio and TV reception. With analogue radio and TV it was jsut annoying crackles and pops and lots of white spots on the screen. With digital the sound and/or picture can freeze for a second or two after a burst of interference.

Even when the 240 volt power feed has the proper suppression fitted the radiation from the welding leads is still there.
I think it's more to do with HF unit that is used. The old type with an ignition coil has always been a problem even if cheap. The instruction shows scratch start but with a good quality slope in and out unit the EMC problem is very much reduced.
 
I think it's more to do with HF unit that is used. The old type with an ignition coil has always been a problem even if cheap. The instruction shows scratch start but with a good quality slope in and out unit the EMC problem is very much reduced.

Not forgetting than an electrical arc puts out a fair bit of HF that cab cause widespread interference
 
Agreed but it would hardly matter if motor driven or main driven that would still happen. Still got interference from the old Lincoln bullet but the rotating mass did reduce the spikes put on the mains.
 
My Dad used to have a home-made circular saw (ultra-safe - brake, what's that?) which had a pretty hefty capacitor-start motor (single-phase, but whether it was a 3-phase conversion I dunno).

I do know that whenever he started it up the lights would dim, and slowly recover, and the TV picture would shrink, and then slowly become full size.

Looking back I wonder what the Electricity Board would have made of it.

Also looking back - "annoying crackles and pops and lots of white spots on the screen"? Hah - we would have bitten your arm off for that if you could have sorted out the fact that when the nearby furniture factory turned on their RF gluing machine it used to totally obliterate our (VHF) TV signal...
 
The first thing you NEED is permission from Electricity NorthWest to connect it, welders of any size can cause dips to the supply of other customers owing to the inrush current as the arc is struck.

It doesn't matter if the manufacturer says it is for home use, you still need this permission.

now that I did not know, I was thinking of getting myself a small welder in the new year too, might have to wait...
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top