What cable to use for my compressor ? advice

[meagain]

If i had wanted to be pulled up on my education i would have gone elsewhere i asked for advice
its not my fault i got a crap education in the 1960s maybe people should think before insulting others
i am an HGV fitter with a good reputation and a hell of a lot more practical than a lot of educated people
so think before correcting faults we are not all smart arses.
By the way i sorted my problem thank you to the decent people who did help.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

meagain, education has little, if anything, to do with it.

Just try reading this:

Hello i wonder if you can help me please what ive got is my back room on 2.5mm cable ring circuit and it runs 4 sockets on a 16a MCB front room is the same runs 3 sockets on a 16a MCB the kitchen is also the same which runs 5 double sockets on a 16a MCB and the oven is on a 16a MCB on a 6mm cable now heres my problem ive only got a single 2.5 mm cable on a 16a MCB and this is the only area i have not upgraded yet it runs through an inline 13a fuse which is in the house it runs washing machine and chest freezer i also have a circular saw induction motor which takes about 300w also got small bandsaw which takes about 100w and a pilar drill which takes about 100w now here comes the hard bit got a compressor which is 50 years old with an induction motor which can run up to 200 psi it draws 1500w but it kicks in at 22a so obviously the 16a MCB trips if i reset the 16a MCB compressor will fire up im considering putting 2x 2.5mm or 3 2.5mm cables as ive got about 50m of this cable left ovrer but if im better putting 6mm or 10mm through i dont mind buying some to go through the house and then an armoured 6mm or 10mm cable running on a 32a MCB to the garage the length from the meter cupboard to the outside wall is 34ft including going round corners ouside is about 38ft so i was considering leaving the washing machine and the freezer on 2.5mm and just running the 32a for the compressor and my saws so the garage can be isolated when not in use i only mention what i have in the house not to confuse anyone but i always run on the safe side and i dont want to takea spur off any of the rooms ive been a commercial fitter for 30 years and thats why i always go on the safe side only been in house 3.5 years been using saws to renovate now want to sort outside out so which is the best option please

And I mean actually reading it as it is actually written, not as you imagined hearing it in your head as you wrote it.

There is not a single full stop, or even a single comma. If you do try reading it out loud don't you dare pause for even a fraction of a second, for if you do you won't be reading what you have written.

Was your education really so poor that you were never even told about punctuation? Never even told that it should be "Hello I wonder.." and not "Hello i wonder.."?

If you were speaking to somebody face to face would you really say something like "what ive got is my back room on 2.5mm cable ring circuit and it runs 4 sockets on a 16a MCB front room is the same runs 3 sockets on a 16a MCB the kitchen is also the same which runs 5 double sockets on a 16a MCB and the oven is on a 16a MCB on a 6mm cable.."?

Try it. Try reading that precisely as it is written, and see how it sounds.

I'm sorry - I don't believe that a poor education is to blame. A poor education might well be responsible for you being poor at spelling. It might well be responsible for you being poor at the finer points of grammar.

But there is absolutely nothing which can possibly be responsible for you writing a string of words which you would not dream of using in speech in real life except your own carelessness and laziness. It's time to stop pretending that you are not to blame for that appalling mess you wrote. Nobody believes you anyway, and the more you persist the more you look a fool.

 

[SimonH2]

If i had wanted to be pulled up on my education i would have gone elsewhere i asked for advice
its not my fault i got a crap education in the 1960s maybe people should think before insulting others

As BAS says, a crap education isn't an excuse for a total lack of punctuation and breaks. It can't have been that crap an education, the spelling wasn't bad, and most of it had words strung together in a sensible order - just lacking some punctuation and breaks to make the sentences obvious.

You are free to ignore what people have said, but just take this away as a bit of advice which will help you in the future.
If you want help from someone, and you make it easy for them, then they are more likely to help than if you make it hard. The block of text you wrote is very, very hard to read - it takes a lot of effort to follow it, fill in the punctuation, and work out what you mean. Quite a few people won't have bothered - I very nearly didn't. Thinking back, it probably took me at least 5 minutes extra to work it out - and if there's a lot of posts like that, then it soon adds up. If you;re short of time, you adjust your effort accordingly, and "difficult" posts get skipped.

Turning that around to your area of expertise. Suppose you have a friend or neighbour that knows you're a fitter, and asks you for help (as a favour) - some simple mechanical job on their vehicle. You know the sort of thing, "can you just ...". Now suppose that vehicle is used off-road - perhaps by a farmer - so is sh*t up to the roof.
If they take the trouble to clean it first, so you can actually see the area in question, is that more likely to make you feel more like helping than if it turns up so covered in sh*t and oil that you can't even see the <whatever> ? I know I'm more likely to take on a "5 minute" job than a "5 minute but will take 1/2 hour just to get the crap off" job - unless I'm getting paid for that 1/2 hour of course.

 

[bernardgreen]

Over the weekend I heard about a person who had been told to stop using a large bench saw until it had been modified as it was dipping the power to his neighbour's houses. The dark evenings meant the neighbours had lights on while he was still working and the dips were noticable.

It seems he is in breach of the electrical supply agreement and if he continues to affect the neighbours then the supply may be disconnected.

When applying for the new supply to my cottage I had to list any motors and other inductive loads that were 1 kW ( or 1 kVA ) This had to include the air conditioning unit that a tenant will be installing into an outbuilding in the near future.

 

[meagain]

A 4hp 240v electric motor only pulls 16-20a on start up and less than 3kw on running this is the largest motor on single phase you can get at the moment a standard kettle is 3kw hairdryers are mostly over 1kw and vacuum cleaners are over 1800w so if you had any of these appliances would that mean you would have to notify the supplier.
The problem I had was that the electric motor was over 50 years old it was a 3 phase motor running on 240v 3 phase which i converted using capacitors etc at 410uf and i forgot all about the centrifugal switch in the motor which was not disengaging the starter coils it is now running fine i thought someone on here might have realized it before me.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Glad you got it sorted!

Here you go, regarding punctuation:

A 4hp 240v electric motor only pulls 16-20a on start up, and less than 3kw on running. This is the largest motor on single phase you can get at the moment. A standard kettle is 3kw. Hairdryers are mostly over 1kw, and vacuum cleaners are over 1800w. If you had any of these appliances would that mean you would have to notify the supplier?

The problem I had was that the electric motor was over 50 years old. It was a 3 phase motor running on 240v 3 phase, which i converted using capacitors etc at 410uf. I forgot all about the centrifugal switch in the motor which was not disengaging the starter coils. It is now running fine. I thought someone on here might have realized it before me.

A lot easier to read, don't you think?

 

[bernardgreen]

a standard kettle is 3kw hairdryers are mostly over 1kw and vacuum cleaners are over 1800w so if you had any of these appliances would that mean you would have to notify the supplier.

Kettles and hair dryers are resistive loads and do not therefore have inrush currents as there is a current limiting resistance at switch on .

Large vacuum cleaners may be more than 1 Kw ( mine is 1.1 Kw ) and should in theory be notified as they can dip the mains at switch on. In practise they tend to come up to speed rapidly and back EMF s then able to reduce the current to its nominal value.


An inductive load ( motors or wound transformers ) have a very low resistance which allows a very high current to flow. ( motor windings of less than an ohm are common which would be a current of over 250 amps ). The continuous current is limited in a transformer by the inductance of the coil which creates an impedance to the alternating current and by back EMF in a rotating motor reducing the effective voltage across the coil.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

A 4hp 240v electric motor only pulls 16-20a on start up and less than 3kw on running this is the largest motor on single phase you can get at the moment a standard kettle is 3kw hairdryers are mostly over 1kw and vacuum cleaners are over 1800w so if you had any of these appliances would that mean you would have to notify the supplier.
The problem I had was that the electric motor was over 50 years old it was a 3 phase motor running on 240v 3 phase which i converted using capacitors etc at 410uf and i forgot all about the centrifugal switch in the motor which was not disengaging the starter coils it is now running fine i thought someone on here might have realized it before me.

You are doing it on purpose.

You are refusing to do the simple tests a number of us have advised you to do.

The reason you do not write properly is not your poor education, it is your laziness and unwillingness to take any care over what you do. HGV fitter? With your personal attitude to quality I would not let you fit s**t onto the end of a shovel.

I'm glad your problem is sorted, as now you can go away and we'll never have to suffer you again.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Here you go, regarding punctuation:

.
.

A lot easier to read, don't you think?

He doesn't care.

 

[SimonH2]

A 4hp 240v electric motor only pulls 16-20a on start up ...

In your dreams, perhaps with no load connected, and using a good soft-start setup. A real motor, with a real load, and using a 'normal' starting arrangement will take "considerably more" than that when starting.

A mates compressor had 2off 3hp (2.2kW) compressors on it. When it was new (not "loosened up") and the weather was cold (so oil a bit thick), it would routinely blow the 30A wired fuse when the second motor started. The first would be running at around 10-12A, the second would try to start, fail, and the fuse would blow in a few seconds. Both compressors have pneumatic soft-start valves on them, so not starting under load - just inertia and friction to overcome.
Even after a few years of use, it still does it occasionally.