What chance of finding diaphragm for this float valve?

[GRC]

This float valve is fitted to a Royal Doulton WC cistern of approx mid-1970s vintage. The owner complained of an overflow drip; I tightened the adjustment rod that pushes into the centre of the diaphragm assembly, and tightened the large locknut around the perimeter of the assembly, to some effect, its not overflowing as quickly but still getting there.

The push rod looks as though it may be fouling on the red plastic and not pushing the diaphragm in fully, leading to the overflow. I plan on removing it and shaving the outside of the rod so that it fits into the diaphragm hole a bit easier.

If this doesn't do the trick, it suggests the diaphragm may need replacement - I did the rounds of the local merchants today, and all I got was "Never seen one like that before" and a selection of shaken heads and breath drawn in over teeth ........

The only diaphragms I could find that looked remotely big enough came from B&Q - an Armitage Shanks type, and a Torbeck

I'll take any suggestions on what make the valve could be, and on the possibilities of finding a suitable matching diaphragm ..... and any other pertinent advice, naturally!

Regards, Graham

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

why not just replace the whole ballvalve and upstand with a new short stubby type.

 

[breezer]

just a thought

how about fit a "modern one" and use a socket so you can attatch it to existing threaded pipe?

 

[Bahco]

You will find out the hard way (like me ) that old fittings etc are not worth messing with.

Always best to renew.

 

[GRC]

why not just replace the whole ballvalve and upstand with a new short stubby type.

GRC - 'cos there's not a lot of pipework to play with under the cistern, and it looks like this -

I'll bet that the (assumed) female thread on the top of the isolating valve doesn't fit a new short stubby type. Haven't measured yet though.

If I remove the iso valve, I'll need to match up to the thread on the chromed elbow, and if that can't match, it seems like I'm down to digging some of the wall out to get at the pipe behind the elbow.

Regards, Graham

 

[keego]

Fooking hell!! thats tight, no wonder you're looking for a replacement diaphram.

 

[brumylad]

does the cistern have a blanked hole to alow for a side entry

before touching that lot make sure the stop tap works

a new brass side entry diaphragm valve might screw into that upstand if the old red plastic one is can be removed.

or better, a new plastic ball valve might fit onto the old at the large locknut.

good luck

tell us how u get on.

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

Nah, fit a new complete unit, take off the isolation valve and go straight from the elbow with a new peice of copper into a Hep20 tap connector and live without the isolation valve, get your money and move onto the next drama, next thing is the customer will have to have a new cistern just to sort an overflow problem out, sounds a bit like wickes 2 year old toilet suites with those leaky illegal import flush valves.

 

[GRC]

just a thought

how about fit a "modern one" and use a socket so you can attatch it to existing threaded pipe?

GRC - i.e. above the isolation valve ...? It looks as though the male thread of the current upstand goes into female thread on the iso valve.... expand, please?

 

[GRC]

Nah, fit a new complete unit, take off the isolation valve and go straight from the elbow with a new peice of copper into a Hep20 tap connector and live without the isolation valve, get your money and move onto the next drama, next thing is the customer will have to have a new cistern just to sort an overflow problem out, sounds a bit like wickes 2 year old toilet suites with those leaky illegal import flush valves.

GRC - Not sure I follow how the copper connects to the elbow - currently looks as though locknut on elbow mates up with threaded piece on iso valve; in which case I'd need a threaded end to the copper ....

Regards, Graham

 

[GRC]

does the cistern have a blanked hole to alow for a side entry

before touching that lot make sure the stop tap works

a new brass side entry diaphragm valve might screw into that upstand if the old red plastic one is can be removed.

or better, a new plastic ball valve might fit onto the old at the large locknut.

good luck

tell us how u get on.

GRC - It does have a blanked side hole, but it's on the left, and all this stuff is on the right!

The iso valve works fine, established that, but not been elsewhere yet.

Took the large red nut off today to see if the replacement diaphragms would fit - no chance, too small. On replacement, leakage through diaphragm worse than before, so left the householder with an allen key to turn the iso on and off as required. Just as well they have a second WC in the house!

I think it'll be replacing whole upstand with new fitting, as long as I can get the threaded end of the new one to mate up with the top of the iso valve etc.

 

[GRC]

Before I take it apart, can any old-timers suggest if the iso valve is likely to have two female threads, or one female (top?) and one male (lower?)
......

Regards, Graham

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

How about unscrewing the complete red plastic ballvalve out of the brass female houseing and then buy a "side entry" one of those small stubby type ballvavles and screw that into the brass housing.

 

[croydoncorgi]

Is the upstand (female) thread which the valve is screwed into half-inch or three-eighth? i'm SURE I've seen a diaphragm valve with a half-inch male thread sticking out of it.....

 

[GRC]

Sorted now - thanks for all the suggestions, chaps; as PED suggested, the red plastic bits unscrewed (with a bit of persuasion, and after removing the vertical red tube and chopping the stub off so the thing could rotate freely) from the brass upstand; the 1/2 inch thread on a float valve from B&Q fitted in OK; needed a bit of customisation in the form of chopping 1.5cm off the end of the thread, and a couple of fibre washers in the brass section, but all seems OK now.

No wonder the old diaphragm didn't work -

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Regards, Graham