What fuse for WarmUp underfloor heating system?

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Hello folks, I have just finished installing a WarmUp DWS600 loose wire system in my bathroom.

A little more on it here, but essentially it's rated at 0.6kW / 2.6 amps.

Warmup DWS 600 Loose Wire Underfloor Heating Kit - http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/warmup-dws-600-loose-wire-underfloor-heating-kit

How should it be fused? Would a switched fused spur with a 3 amp fuse be ok for this / any reason why I should not?

http://www.builderdepot.co.uk/bg-ne...ction-unit-with-neon-brushed-steel-fbs52.html
 
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The installation manual appears to be generic for all their models. Using the table for your particular model, as you say its 2.6a so install a 3a fuse. Assume this is also RCD protected as per the instructions?
 
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Hello folks, I have just finished installing a WarmUp DWS600 loose wire system in my bathroom.
Hmm.

Would you like people here to tell you that it was a waste of time, effort, and money, or would you prefer to find that out for yourself after you've turned it on?


Also, where will the FCU be, and where will any connections in the bathroom be made, thermostats installed, etc?
 
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Hello folks, thanks for everyone's input. :)

I'm a DIY enthusiast, working on everything from my bikes to cars to my home, so everything I do is either self-taught or as a result of some research (on here, YouTube, technical references).

My understanding is that unless the socket is a minimum 3m away from the bath / shower, then there can be no electrical sockets / outlets in the bathrooms.

As such, the WarmUp thermostat, planned fuse (FCU) and light switch are on the stud wall outside the bathroom itself in order to comply.

Also, and I'm panicking a bit now, why was the WarmUp system a waste of time? I did things properly in that I laid the wiring on backer board to reflect the heat back up / help heat floor quicker, covered the wiring with Mapei self-levelling floor, then grout, then tiles.
 
My understanding is that unless the socket is a minimum 3m away from the bath / shower, then there can be no electrical sockets / outlets in the bathrooms.

That's only sockets.

Other things can be inside the bathroom, subject to (a) zones, and (b) being suitable according to their manufacturer for use is bathrooms.
 
As such, the WarmUp thermostat, planned fuse (FCU) and light switch are on the stud wall outside the bathroom itself in order to comply.
I hope that's a thermostat as in something wired to a temperature sensor in a floor pocket, and not one that reacts to air temperature.


Also, and I'm panicking a bit now, why was the WarmUp system a waste of time? I did things properly in that I laid the wiring on backer board to reflect the heat back up / help heat floor quicker, covered the wiring with Mapei self-levelling floor, then grout, then tiles.
Well - TBF it does depend on why you have installed it.

I will not heat the room.

It will not dry the floor.

If you only want it because you've got a tiled floor and aren't prepared to use a mat or wear slippers if you find the tiles too chilly, then it will take the chill off.
 
It says on the page linked to "double insulated" I seem to remember when I came to fit underfloor heating that in a bathroom either it had to have an earth braid around the wires, that's the type I used, or a metal earth mat has to be laid above the heating wires and it needs to be earthed.

We found our electric under floor heating useless, the problem is depending on surface but normally the maximum temperature of the floor is limited to 30°C so with recommended temperature for a bathroom at 24°C that's just 6°C which is not enough to put the heat into the room taken out by the extractor fan, so you also need some other form of heating as well. Unless exempt from charges like for the disabled then the LABC charges makes it uneconomic to do it as a DIY job, the LABC charges are too high, and because it needs to be registered with the LABC it has to cross all t's and dot all i's so RCD protection and correct type selection is a must.

Likely a 3A fuse would be OK, however think I would fit a 5A fuse.
 
It says on the page linked to "double insulated" I seem to remember when I came to fit underfloor heating that in a bathroom either it had to have an earth braid around the wires, that's the type I used, or a metal earth mat has to be laid above the heating wires and it needs to be earthed.
I was concerned about that so I checked - it has a braid.

 
Thank you for that, I did read after you pointed that out, and there is one point which may be a problem with a DIY install, it stated it must be supplied from a "dedicated" 30 mA RCD, with no more than 4.8 kW to each RCD, which means in many cases the supply would need to be a dedicated supply from the consumer unit using a RCBO for the supply. So it does not need to have a FCU at all if it needs a dedicated supply as long as the RCBO is double pole, that would depend on make of consumer unit, for some you can get single width double pole switching although the over load is only measured on the line.

It also states on instructions 27°C maximum and Part P. It looks very like the one I fitted, it's used after a shower to dry the floor, although it could be switched on before the water from shower cools it down so you feel very little or no benefit, we made a mistake and fitted sculptured tiles as we thought it would give more grip for my mother with only one leg, however all it means is it hold water after having a shower, so it always needs sweeping down and the heated floor does dry the floor quicker so loo is useable again quicker. But that is all the under floor heating does, as for heating room it's useless.
 
When you say grout, do you mean adhesive?

Yes, sorry, I do. If it is of any use to somebody, these are the 'layers' I used, double checked by Mapei's technical team, who incidentally I rate very highly, phones are answered after a couple rings and they also available via email too.

So, from the bottom up:

(1) 6mm tile backer attached to concrete screed floor surface using Mapei Keraquick S1 adhesive (note: can't do any more than 10mm thickness using S1, so ensure your floors are pretty level before you start

(2) Prime backer boards with Mapei Eco Prim T and allow to dry

(3) Install Warmup loose wire system as per instructions, ensuring a minimum of 5cm and a max of 10cm in between each row of wires

(4) Once laid down / affixed, encapsulate loose wire system with 5 to 6mm of Mapei UltraPlan Renovation screed levelling compound. Cables should be a minimum of 2 to 3mm below the top of the compound level

(5) Apply Everbuild Aquaseal waterproofer / tanking slurry to relevant parts of wall / floor where shower / bath will be located (Mapei have an equivalent product but I have used he Everbuild stuff before and it is good value)

(6) Apply tiles using Mapei Keraquick S1 adhesive

(7) Apply grout

(8) Connect WarmUp controller to loose wiring system, then jump onto DIYNot and seek advice on whether a 3a FCU will be ok :D
 
it must be supplied from a "dedicated" 30 mA RCD, with no more than 4.8 kW to each RCD, which means in many cases the supply would need to be a dedicated supply from the consumer unit using a RCBO for the supply.

Thanks for your response - I was busy typing mine just now when you replied. :)

This is probably getting a little technical for me, but I don't think the floor is on it's own circuit. On the same circuit I think there are some 13a 2 gang power sockets, how many I will have to check.

If, and I will check once I am home, I discover the Warmup is not on its own circuit, will bunging a 13 amp switched fused connection unit (with a 3 or 5 amp fuse instead of the 13 amp fuse) suffice?
 
It will not dry the floor.

Oh dear. That is exactly what I wanted it for :(

I guess we sometimes get sucked in, especially when it is our own home, to put lots of gizmos and gadgets we might think are useful, only to seldom use them or find that they are a massive disappointment!

I am now wondering why I bothered :(

Why didn't you say earlier? :-p
 

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