what kind of saw-Table, circular or another?

[matt1098]

I am just about to start laying a reclaimed oak strip floor (with lots of damaged ends) and will need to cut alot of the pieces to length as I go along. As each cut end piece will need to perfectly butt against another and be totally straight I would be grateful for any advice re what type of electric saw I should buy. I dont own any specialist tools so apart from the usual black and decker workmate I dont have anything that would assist re holding the wood in place. I therefore wonder whether a circular saw would not be the best idea.

I have seen some table saws on fleabay which go for about £70 new and thought that might be enough for my needs?

I dont do alot of specialist wood cutting so apart from cutting some mitred skirting the saw wouldn't need to do anything else.

Any advice re both the type and also what features to ensure it has would be v gratefully received

Thanks

 

[Symptoms]

matt - a table saw is excellent for ripping timber along it's length but not great for what you are proposing, cross-cutting. The problem with cross-cutting on the cheaper machines is that the sliding mitre fences aren't that well engineered and are too short so 'rock' a bit; this can cause the timber to be 'grabbed' by the blade or will result in an off-square cut. If you can compensate for this rocking then, if funds are really tight, it is possible to use this tackle. It can also be used to tongue & groove. These problems are not an issue on better-built 'industrial' type tablesaws.

A hand-held circular saw for flooring work, in the hands of a novice, is a disaster waiting to happen ... avoid!!!

If you're only going to chop stuff to length consider a compound mitre saw (sliding if you can afford it); much safer, more accurate. Even the cheapo ones are OK for floor work. Obviously, you can't rip timber along the length with one of these.

What about restoring the tongue & grooves that will be cut off? Post again for advice for this.

 

[matt1098]

Thanks Symptoms for your thoughts

I did want to have something that could cut/rip along the length but thats less important as that will only be at the end walls and then I can use a jigsaw, hiding the cut edge under the skirting board (allowing for the expansion gap still). I'll get what you suggest, maybe treat myself to a nice Metabo one (approx £150).

I would love to put new t&g at the end of cut pieces as ALOT of my wood has damaged ends or some other prob that means chopping pieces off. However I have got 60 sq yards and only need about 40 so was planning on chopping off on the joists (they are 12 inches apart approx) and then using the portanailer to secret nail both end pieces on the joist thereby avoiding face nailing (thats the theory-not sure if the wood might split close to the edge)
Anyway, out of interest- what would u suggest re the t&g? is there a inexpensive tool (router I presume) that does a good job? This may be worth getting as my wastage allowance may get eaten up quite quickly.

Thanks again

 

[Symptoms]

Matt - t & g issue = cheapo router and cheapo router table and Tungsten Carbide tongue & groove cutter. Productivity set-up = mitre saw alonside router table ... cut to length then cut T & Gs in one operation. IMO avoid butted square end as you'll only have max 1" (2" wide joists) in which you can nail ... you will split more than you don't. So the small additional cost of the above tackle - maybe £120 - is money well spent to avoid frustration and poor installation. Sell the tackle afterwards although a router is handy to have in the tool cupboard.

 

[matt1098]

would that be up to it?


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