Wet UFH will be cheaper to run.
But still subject to the same laws of physics concerning surface emissivity.
But still subject to the same laws of physics concerning surface emissivity.
What load can my shed cable take?
- Thread starter KnightWhoSaysNi
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Totally, which is why I said get a radiator too. The UFH is purely (and only good) for taking the chill off the floor.
Which won't be needed if it's properly insulated.
The UFH you mean? I don't think there's ever been a case where it's 'needed', its definitely an extravagance, but it is a nice feeling.
Even in a well insulated building, tiles won't ever really get 'warm underfoot' as that probably requires a ~25/30C surface temp, and nobody sets their CH stat that high
Even in a well insulated building, tiles won't ever really get 'warm underfoot' as that probably requires a ~25/30C surface temp, and nobody sets their CH stat that high
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Might as well run in a phat cable while the ground is dug up. Which reg prohibits running it with the water? Water won't hurt swa or micc cable. Or even t&e cable for that matter. Chuck in the biggest cable you can afford.
Put in a couple of large ducts with gently swept bends - one for power, the other for comms.
Cables in ducts are a lot easier to replace or add to than ones directly buried.
Cables in ducts are a lot easier to replace or add to than ones directly buried.
No - I meant that "taking the chill off" won't be needed - he's not proposing a concrete or tiled floor. Laminate (or better still, proper wood) will be OK au naturel.
Yes, concrete gravel boards and concrete posts. As I said a section of the existing cable is already attached like that.
Why do you think UFH wouldn't work? I've seen UFH work well in other places.
When you're in direct contact with the floor most of the time (as you are while doing yoga), the air doesn't need to be that warm for comfort as you're benefiting from the floor's warmth more directly. It's kind of like sleeping on an electric blanket.
An air-source heat pump might be an efficient alternative, but I think UFH would be cheaper and more appropriate for this purpose (for the reason stated above)?
I reckon I'd need Building Regs approval for the plumbing and electrics.
The space wouldn't be just for myself, it would be used by more people occasionally who would sometimes pay to hire the space, if that changes anything?
I read it on here: http://www.gardenaffairs.co.uk/blog-offering-inspiration-expert-advice/services-garden-buildings
But they seem to contradict themselves or maybe I misunderstood something?
The three main aspects involved are running power to the bathroom for lighting, water heating and ventilation; the supply of fresh water from the mains; and the discharge of waste water.
These three elements will vary in cost depending upon the location of the garden room. All three services can be laid to your garden building in the same trench, and this is ideally done during the groundworks stage before installing your log cabin or summer house.
Further down they say:
Water pipes need to be buried below the frost line, and insulated from cold where they run above ground. They need to be run to your building at a minimum distance from electrical cables, but waste pipes can run in the same trench as the water supply.
That would mean laying gas pipes as well. I guess it's doable and I like the idea, should work out much cheaper to run.
With wet UFH why would I need a radiator?
It changes a lot of things. You may need full Building Regulations approval for habitable space, including possibly a space of public entertainment or assembly rather than a domestic dwelling, this means everything from fire exit doors to anti-scald protection on hot water systems. You will probably also need planning permission for change of use to commercial, and this will include provision for parking etc. You will need commercial premises and public liability insurance.
Just because something is already a certain way doesn't mean it is compliant or can be replicated.
Have you seen it effectively heat the entire room, or just take the chill off a stone floor?
A 3kW ASHP will put about 10kW of heat into the room. And cool it in the summer.
As Owain said, it changes a lot of things. Before you do anything else you should check on what you'll need to do to be able to get all the necessary permissions and insurances, as you may have to modify things and you may have to have a qualified electrician do the whole lot.
I don't see any contradiction. They say they can all be in the same trench, but with minimum separations (although they don't see fit to tell you what those are).
Because UFH, whatever its energy source, is not good at heating rooms. If the floor is not to become too hot for comfort then the amount of heat it radiates is not going to be enough to heat the room.
You may not, but whilst you're in the building stage, adding a rad is only going to be £200ish more to install, if you have the TRV set to 2 the whole, it's no great loss.
If you don't fit one now, and decide later you need one, it's gonna cost more, and cause damage (have ugly pipes clipped to the walls - they even look nasty with those pipe covers on)
UFH is cheap(er) to install, but by far the most expensive to use.
Get the air conditioner / ASHP system - significantly less to run, works pretty much instantly, and surely a yoga studio would require a fair amount of cooling in the summer?
Gas is cheaper than electricity, but it you already have gas heating in your house, adding another boiler may not be possible without upgrading the meter, and that won't be cheap either.
Thanks for all the input. ASHP sounds the best option then. The guidelines for the UK are 1kW per 10m2, which works out to 3kW for my studio, so the existing cable should be good enough, but I'll try and replace it while laying the pipes.
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