What the....!!!!

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My brother in law asked me a few weeks ago if I could move a 13amp twin socket in his bedroom to waist level as he had a broken back and now ha severe problems bending. I started on it this morning - just taking a break for an early lunch - oh my. He as lived in that house for 30 years and I am amazed he hasn't had problems.

His 'consumer unit' is an old Wylex model which has slots for 2x 5amp and 2x 30amp fuses, although one 30amp has been swapped out to 15amp (I'll come to that). I removed the 30amp - all sockets still live, I removed the 15amp, all sockets still alive, I removed the first 5amp all sockets still alive but all the house lights out (up and downstairs), so I came to the final 5amp, yes, you guessed that is where the upstairs ring main is routed.

The thing is, the 2.5 cable to this socket isn't that old, it's grey but I can't see a date on it and bro-in-L can't remember when someone installed it. The rest of that ring upstairs is white pvc with red/black core cable. So someone should have noticed this fuse box mess (he's the sort who would call in 'experts'). He had the kitchen re-wired 12 years ago, the only thing that was said then was that there was no earth to the gas pipe (the least of his problems!).

After going over the whole house I discovered that the 15amp fuse links to the emersion heater (which he hasn't used since it broke 15 years ago!) and a wall heater that used to be in the bathroom (disconnected several years ago).

The cable supplying the upstairs lights in the loft is rubber and connected (badly) to the fittings by using block terminals rather than junction boxes, the result being that some of the live wires have become exposed as the rubber sheathing has crumbled from the red & black inner core cable.

He can't afford a re-wire (been out of work for some time, savings spent), I can't afford to help him out either. The main fuse does not have an isolating switch, so to make things half safe I am thinking about re-wiring the light fittings to a junction box and cut back the rubber main/feed wire to that as a temporary measure. I know from my own experience with the rubber wire that it is usually just the exposed core (red/black) wire that becomes brittle once it is exposed, so cutting back should expose more flexible 'healthy' wire. Yeah, I know it's not perfect but he simply hasn't anything like to cash to get a sparks in!

However, I don't know what to do about the fuse situation right now - it's all terribly wrong, but it's been like that for at least 30 years!

Any helpful advice appreciated (please no lectures I know, he knows the place need a full re-wire but that is not possible on his budget)
 
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if al the fuses were out at the same time to turn off the upstairs ring, then there's a chance that the 5A has become cross connected with a 30A somewhere along the lines ( possibly bedside table lamps on 5A sockets replaced with 13's and linked in to the ring somewhere.. )

if you only pulled one fuse at a time and replaced it bofore ppulling the next, then the same sort of this could have happened..
5A sockets switched for 13A....


are these rewireable fuses?
how do you know that they haven't just put 30A fusewire in the 5A holder?
 
The 30 amp circuit is just feeding the downstairs ring main.

I am loathed to even try to use a choc box cover because of the brittle condition of the sheathing also the way the wire has been space out I think it would need a large choc box they have a blank terminal between each wired terminal.

I did take the fuses out one at a time replacing each after testing what they related to.

The CU fuse holders (rewireable type) are colour coded the 30amp is red, 15amp blue and the 2 five amp are white. The fuse wire appears thinner in the white fuse holders than the 15 & 30 amp holders. As far as I can see all the upstair 13amp cable is in order. This afternoon, I have been pulling up a few floorboards and am confident that the upstair 13amp ring is using the correct grade wire - indeed it is sightly thicker than todays modern 2.5 wire and is pvc.

With regard to the earth bonding, there is a thick earth wire coming out of the back of the CU/Fuse box, this goes into a terminal block screwed to the backing board from this there is another earth wire that goes to the water pipe. I assume I just need to take another earth wire from that block and wire it to the gas pipe - which is only a few inches away.

Another weird thing is that I checked the upstairs light fittings and 3 of the 5 upstairs lights are wired thru modern fittings i.e. looping the main/power wire from one to the other from the fitting rather than using junction boxes - but WITH this awful rubber wire! - what sort of sparks does that? Bro-in-law would definately have employed a sparks - unless these kind of light fittings were available more than 30 years ago when the previous owner may have done this
 
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Please note my signature.

Presumably he has insurance that will cover the cost of fires, funerals etc?
 
you don't mention the main earthing conductor - is it in place?

I just say this as with a fuse board and cables of that age its possible that the earthing is via the water pipe - now not allowed. My neighbours 90 year old neighbours house was exactly the same....
 

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