What to use to brick up below a window?

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I intend bricking up below a kitchen window and have a few questions about what to use.

My house is built from no fines concrete so there is no cavity. It is currently waiting for external wall insulation because the semi solid concrete walls loose so much heat. It is this which has prompted me to remove the panel which are situated below the PVCu window so that it can also be insulated. The panel is two sheets of metal, aluminium I suspect, with a foam layer between them and a plastic coating.

I have worked out that I should be able to cut the lower section from the window because I do not wish to replace the window itself and it's all one unit of double glazed window above and panel below. The panel is just fitted with beading and can be removed fairly easily. It's the angled section which tapers to the panel which will need to be cut off.

I intend moving the kitchen radiator onto this new wall because it seems the ideal place for it. Therefore I want to make it as thermally efficient as possible, keeping as much heat from the radiator inside the room.

The main outside walls have no cavity but I thought that it might be worth creating a cavity wall for the bricked up sections below the window. Then fitting some insulation inside as I do it. What type of insulation would be best to use? Not much is required as the wall will be 1.3M x 93cm tall

What type of bricks would be best to use? The outside will be rendered so no bricks will be visible. I would like it as thermally efficient as possible. I don't think that I will need any conventional bricks, blocks might be best. Would aerated blocks or aggregate blocks be suitable? There is no load on it but the thermal performance is what I am considering. I suspect that the aerated blocks might have the best thermal efficiency but I would like some confirmation.

How best should I ensure that a crack doesn't form where the new wall meets the no fines concrete? If I used smaller bricks, I could work the bricks into the concrete by a small amount, however I don't want to weaken the wall too much by removing concrete with all the weight from above. That would be far more impractical with larger blocks. Is there something which could be pushed in to the holes in the concrete or a few pieces of the large aggregate stones in the concrete removed and some cement added to fix it and then that built into the wall to stabilize it? Some form of thick wire, I have seen figure of 8 type fixers before and something similar might do what I require. There are two floors with a floor above the kitchen.


1/ What bricks/blocks to use?
2/ How to prevent a crack appearing where the new wall meets the concrete?
3/ What insulation to use in the cavity? Will need to fit a 40 to 45mm cavity if using 100mm bricks/blocks.
4/ DPC - anything in particular to go for? How should I meet it with the current wall?

Total wall thickness = 28cm, including approx 20mm outside render and 10-15mm internal plaster
 
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The most thermally-efficient choice would be aac block. For stability, I should be inclined to use the 8" thick block, and make up the difference in thickness inside with a bit of insulated plasterboard.
The main difficulty as you realize is fixing new to old, as these houses are nightmares to work on. You could try fixing in a couple of lengths of threaded bar (6mm?) eeach side, about 12" long, set in holes drilled in the n/f, and secured with resin. (Plenty of resin because the holes will end up quite big). You will inevitably get a small crack each side as the blocks shrink, but this can be dealt with as and when.
 
If you are having external insulation then use any brick or block as thermal efficiency will make no difference

It's also a waste of time and bad practice to create a cavity wall when the rest is solid and, even more so if it is to be externally insulated.

Get some stainless steel bar, or helical bar may be better as it bends easier, and just drill a single hole and slot it in in line with bed joints. No need to epoxy if its a snug fit as it is not going anywhere
 
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The most thermally-efficient choice would be aac block. For stability, I should be inclined to use the 8" thick block, and make up the difference in thickness inside with a bit of insulated plasterboard.
The main difficulty as you realize is fixing new to old, as these houses are nightmares to work on. You could try fixing in a couple of lengths of threaded bar (6mm?) eeach side, about 12" long, set in holes drilled in the n/f, and secured with resin. (Plenty of resin because the holes will end up quite big). You will inevitably get a small crack each side as the blocks shrink, but this can be dealt with as and when.
I do intend fitting a radiator to the wall which is why I wanted it to be as thermally efficient as possible. I don't really want any more heat than necessary entering into the wall and external insulation isn't going to stop that. The external wall insulation isn't even 100% guaranteed to happen but it's likely as some of the houses in the road just behind are currently having it fitted. It comes down to cost or how much, if anything, that they want me to contribute. So far I have not received anything from them and they have already done a survey. That would need to be redone when I complete this work.

The AAC blocks sound like they might be a good choice.

I did want to do the same with a panel in the bedroom above and the lightness of the AAC blocks might help keep the weight down. That is the only upstairs window which has a panel, the other three have concrete below the windows.

If you are having external insulation then use any brick or block as thermal efficiency will make no difference

It's also a waste of time and bad practice to create a cavity wall when the rest is solid and, even more so if it is to be externally insulated.

Get some stainless steel bar, or helical bar may be better as it bends easier, and just drill a single hole and slot it in in line with bed joints. No need to epoxy if its a snug fit as it is not going anywhere

Using a stainless steel sounds like a good idea. I did have a french window in the lounge replaced with a window when I moved in and that had to be bricked up. I don't know how they did it because I wasn't living here when it was done. Outside I don't remember see any cracks but inside there is a hairline crack in the plaster. I doubt that they went to too much trouble when doing it.

External insulation will only reduce the cooling of the room, it won't affect the heat going into the wall behind the radiator. Adding some insulation directly to the wall might be the best idea if I can do it and still fix the radiator into it.

No need to epoxy if its a snug fit

I doubt he would gst it a snug fit. N/f is worse than crunchy bar and the drill will wander all over the place, producing a hole larger than the drill bit.
lol, your comment about N/F is very true. I have fitted a TV aerial and a Satellite dish and they were awful to drill. Drilling it knocks the large stones out of the way leaving a large hole which is highly unlikely to be a snug fit.

For the satellite dish I purchased some Lokfix P25 and sank some S/S threaded bars with two nuts locked onto them into the holes before adding the P25 to fit the dish and I still have some of it left which I could use if it's still okay. I think it might be a little past it's use by date but it might be okay.
 

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