What type of switch/socket do I need?

[systematic]

Hello guys,

We have an electric shower that has stopped functioning due to a faulty power switch??? - It's a white socket on the outside of the bathroom wall with a red switch and red/amber LED.

Last week we noticed the LED either did one of three things when switched ON:

1. Lit up but shower powered and then immediately powered off
2. Did not light up
3. Flickered on and off

Something has gone wrong with this switch and I was wondering if I need to replace this thing as a whole or simply replace a fuse that may be within it???? If I need to replace it as a whole, what do I go looking for B&Q - what is this called?

Lastly, I was thinking of doing all the above with the main electricity turned off. That should be OK right?

Thank you

 

[cumbriahandyman]

Open it up and see what is happening inside, if you are lucky, you might just have a loose wire.

A pic might help the sparks. Isolate first as you said.

 

[systematic]

Thank you mate.

I will unscrew it and take a picture and come back on here.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yep, look for loose connection first.
Isolate circuit before you carry out any work.
There is no need to isolate the whole system just the shower circuit, prove the circuit is dead with either a voltage indicator of multimeter, not a neon screwdriver!
If it is the switch/ shower isolator that is faulty.
You want a double pole switch with neon indicator rated at 45Amps, if your showers output rating is 10kw or less.
something like this
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2757.html
Before you disconnect the existing isolator, note down connection and cable details.
ie colour cores of cable and the termination they are in, supply and load.

 

[systematic]

Hello dudes,

Ok so I unscrewed the socket and the first thing I noticed was a strong burny smell.

Here is the wiring:

2 earth wires going into one hole on left side
2 earth wires going into one hole on right side
1 live wire going into one hole on right side
1 live wire going into one hole on right side (under the one)
1 neutral wire in parallel to one live wire (left side)
1 neutral wire in parallel to other live wire (left side)

One of the live wires (the one above) starts off red from the wall and then goes black an inch away from the hole it is screwed in (burned/carbon)

The switch I was told is a One Gang 45A Double Pole Switch ith Neon Light.

I was also told that when replacing it, I will need to make note of all wires as they are integral to the correct functioning.

The other part I need to do is cut off the burned red part befpre wiring it into the new switch.

The last part I am scared off.

I have switched off everything - big red switch (mains), big but small red switch and all the mini grey switches.

I am still nervous that I may get electrocuted or something.

Should I get a pro to do this, or you think I can do it?

Cheers guys!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you find a loose connection, look for signs of overheating, such as discoloured metal (cable conductors or switch), scorched or brittle insulation.

If you find any you should replace the switch, cut back the cable past the point of overheating, and refix. Tighten the terminals well, then retighten a few days later.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You must prove the circuit is dead before carry out any work, you need the correct approved test equipment to do this.
It is a simple task to do, providing you feel confident in doing it.
If your are unsure and unconfident of what you are doing.
Stay safe and get a pro in.

 

[systematic]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I checked B&Q and they have a switch for £28!! here:

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...neon&fh_eds=ß&fh_refview=search&isSearch=true

But screwfix do one for £5 here:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89530...e-Moulded/Marbo-Range/Marbo-45A-DP-1G-Sw-Neon

I don't have any testing equipment, but surely, if I have powered everything down (leccy wise), it should be good enough for me to replace?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

B&Q are expensive plus with being chrome rather than plastic will add to cost.

I don't have any testing equipment, but surely, if I have powered everything down (leccy wise), it should be good enough for me to replace?

You would think so, providing there is not a fault with your main isolator!
Now that would be scary!
Now then, we must have concerns about your safety.
I would never recomend anyone carrying out work on electric circuits without firstly using safe isolation methods and proving the circuit was dead.
The choice is yours, hope the above post was not your last!

 

[Chri5]

but surely, if I have powered everything down (leccy wise), it should be good enough for me to replace?

It mights, when you 'think; everything is off would you attempt a wet tongue on wire contact test

Chat to your mates, someone will have a simple multimeter to allow you to safely confirm the circuit is isolated.

If you really must, and don't have any friends of the techie type, isolate the complete house supply via the main switch on the CU. Test for dead by making sure lights, fridge, cooker and socket do not work.

Why Are you changing the 45a 2 pole switch ? You mention a burned cable that needs stripping back to clean sheath and bright metal, that indicates a hr connection (loose terminal). I'd suggest you repair the cable, replace the terminal, tighten the re-terminated wiring correctly and see if that resolves the fault.

If you have any doubts or confidence issues, seek a pro- it's an hours work v you and yours safety.