What varnish and how to apply

[OchAye]

Hi,

I am looking to finish some new hardwood (nothing special as far as the wood goes) trims around a window. e.g. internal cill, and some other trims. I would like to varnish with clear satin.

What varnish(brand/type) would you recommend that can take drips of condensation and muddy cat paws?

Although the quality of the finish for this project does not matter I would like to do it as best as I can as there may be another more costly varnishing project to follow.

===================

How to apply?
By brush? Synthetic (Purdy) or e.g. Hamilton perfection (which I have unused)?

TIA
Charles

 

[TheDec]

Take a look at Sikkens or Sadolin products, a Purdy would be fine.

Dec.

 

[opps]

Hi charles

i agree that purdy will be fine- wooster even better.

I only use synthetic brushes.

The last lot of natural brushes that I purchased (£30 purdy brand) were a pain with breaking bristles- I gave them away

 

[joe-90]

The Hamilton is a very good brush.

Doesn't matter what brand varnish you use, what you should be looking for is polyurethane in either gloss or satin.

Apply one coat and wait for a day or two. Sand it with 80 grit paper.

Add another coat and wait a day or two.

Sand lightly with 120 grit or finer. (I use steel wool)

Apply a top coat and run your brush very gently, first across the grain then with the grain. Do it quickly and LEAVE IT - Don't OVERBRUSH it or it'll get messy.

 

[TheDec]

Whilst I don't disagree that polyurethane is a very durable coating and well capable to withstand the rigours of modern day life.

The op requires that the varnish is first applied to a hardwood internal cill, these can often receive a great deal of uv, and if this is the case the polyurethane would quickly bloom and peel away.

Dec.

 

[OchAye]

Whilst I don't disagree that polyurethane is a very durable coating and well capable to withstand the rigours of modern day life.

The op requires that the varnish is first applied to a hardwood internal cill, these can often receive a great deal of uv, and if this is the case the polyurethane would quickly bloom and peel away.

Dec.

Yes this is what worries me. To explain further. I just got fitted a largish replacement window in a loft. The loft is not insulated or heated, it is rather well ventilated. Basically the cill will have the same termperatures as outside, direct sunlight, minus the rain. The cill, and suround of the cavity for the window have been dressed in hardwood, i.e. where the plaster or plasterboard would have been. I have worked with pure tung oil, steel wool (got rolls of it), waxes and shellac. I have not worked with varnish so I take it as an opportunity to learn how to produce a fine and durable finish.

Finally I would like to use solvent based varnish. The stuff that would be very thin or need thining and apply three or so coats or am I missing something?

My problem
Sadolin: I can't figure what to use. A lot of oils. Varnish? http://www.sadolin.co.uk/homeowner/products/interior/range

Sikkens: I am also completely lost.

Crown Trade: That is straightforward, I use their paints, I understand what I see probably because they do not really make varnishes http://www.crowntrade.co.uk/Products/Woodcare/Pages/AllPurposeVarnishSatin.aspx

Any ideas as to what product to use? One of my local Crown Trade merchanst seems to have a lot of other than Crown brands of wood caring products but it is me who is stuck.

cheers
Charles

PS. Experience gained from the above may have to be used to varnish new internal oak veneered doors ... this is where it is all leading.

 

[opps]

Why not danish oil the interior doors? Or shellac them?

 

[TheDec]

The product in your second link, Crown all Purpose, should give you a good result. I would use a synthetic brush and work with the grain.

You mention that you have in the past used oils, so if the woodwork you intend to varnish are oiled you should wipe down prior to application with either meths or turps changing the rags frequently.

Then lightly abrade with no less than 240 grit then apply your first coat, when fully cured again lightly abrade and apply your second coat. You can continue this sequence untill the desired finish is achieved.

One important point is when sanding always go with the grain and never against it.

Dec.

 

[joe-90]

Whilst I don't disagree that polyurethane is a very durable coating and well capable to withstand the rigours of modern day life.

The op requires that the varnish is first applied to a hardwood internal cill, these can often receive a great deal of uv, and if this is the case the polyurethane would quickly bloom and peel away.

Dec.

The idea is that you don't put it on thick. Been doing it for 25 years - never a problem yet.

 

[TheDec]

joe.

I neither question your approach or your time within the trade, polyurethane varnishes will withstand many things including heat. But they dont take kindly to sunlight.

I've been in this trade for over 45 years and old habits die hard.

Take care

Dec.

 

[opps]

I seldom use varnish (internally) but i have never had any peeling. I have had blushing in areas of high condensation, eventually leading to penetration to the wood underneath. This however is normally down to a failure of the silicone/mastic sealants.

That said, i don't rate varnish that highly and prefer the sadolin oils, esp out doors

 

[benno5]

just one thing i wouldn,t go near it with an 80 grade sandpaper between coats ,
use a 240 or 320 grade aluminium oxide paper or wet and dry etc , imo of course

 

[OchAye]

just one thing i wouldn,t go near it with an 80 grade sandpaper between coats ,
use a 240 or 320 grade aluminium oxide paper or wet and dry etc , imo of course

I took the grade 80 paper as a typo

 

[joe-90]

If you haven't tried it don't knock it. The first coat soaks into the grain - that is what you are sanding off. That is what gives you are perfectly flat and smooth surface to work with.

 

[opps]

i only use 80g for paint removal but i guess the results for ali oxide and silicone carbide would be quite different.

it also depends on whether you are using proper sanders with dust extraction or doing it by hand