what's wrong with volex?

[davedasave]

just read a post about volex no good for a 100A service fuse, when reading another post yesterday about uprating from 60A to 100A i thought i would do the same as i have a new split load volex and have a 60A service fuse

when i phoned up today they told me i need to get the cut out increased? i don't know what this is so info on that would be helpful, but now i'm not sure whether to do it

is there anything major wrong with a volex or is it just like having a lada instead of a jag?

 

[JohnD]

It's a brand aimed at the low-price buyer.

If you look at or near your main switch, it will have the max load rating on it. Maybe it's 80A?

The brand is now owned by Electrium, which also makes Crabtree and Wylex brands. Crabtree is one of the best.

They just segment the market to make a range of prices and qualities

Even the case designs are more stylish in the more expensive brands.

 

[davedasave]

the main switch on the cu? its 100A

my elcb which was left as an isolator is only rated 60A so i guess it would be best to leave the service fuse at 60A, is there any advantage to having a 100A service fuse? what is the cut out edf said they would have to increase? is it just the part the fuse fits in to?

 

[JohnD]

A 100A service fuse is enough to run an electric shower, and a big electric cooker, and a few fan heaters, all at the same time.

A 60A fuse would not last long with such a big load on it.

If the 60A RCD controls a couple of 32A ring circuits, it will be adequate. Chances are you will never put 60A through it anyway.

But, when you say ELCB? If this is an old separate device, you may not need it any more, depends on the earthing arrangements of your installation. It may also be obsolete and not to be trusted. You can buy a 100A RCD 30mA quite cheaply, but this is not the best way to protect the whole installation. Show us a wider picture.

The cut-out is the large iron or plastic box on the end of the incoming cable. It includes the company fuse.

p.s. looking at your pic I see you have a cooker circuit on the RCD. This is not best practice, as cookers tend to give rise to nuisance tripping as they age. As they are not portable appliances and are not used outdoors they are not required to be on an RCD.

 

[davedasave]

the elcb was left after the cu was fitted as a way to isolate the cu in the future without having to disconnect the service fuse, it's inoperative as it doesn't have an earth going to the supply earth but i will eventually change it.

with regards to the cooker on the rcd, it had to go on there because i stupidly thought that buying a cooker switch with a 13A socket would be a good idea! you live and learn, and i don't actually have an electric cooker, so its not used anyway, i just had it fitted incase i ever did get one

 

[securespark]

If it doesn't have an earth connection, what's that phantom green/yellow thing looking like it attaches to the units earth terminal?

 

[davedasave]

that ones going to the cu, it goes down then up, the top of the elcb comes in from the meter and doesn't have an earth connected, and like i said, its only used as an isolator, pressing the yellow button does nothing

 

[comms]

Theres nothing wrong with Volex, as already said the volex is a lower cost range of a well known brand (wylex / crabtree).
The reason they are not liked by electricians (including me) is the general lack of space inside & the build of the housing isnt as good as other brands & means they are more flexible & prone to twisting.
Having said that I've used them on occations.

 

[Cremeegg]

Nowt wrong with Volex - for the price - as ever you get what you pay for. More money for better materials; better quality screws; more space inside; better design to make life easier to work on.

MEM; Merlin Gerin or Hager for me by choice. Crabtree; Square D; Wylex; MK - all OK. All others I avoid - some I refuse to fit.