Which is best inhibitor or power flush - new boiler?

Joined
18 Oct 2011
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Gloucestershire
Country
United Kingdom
I'm in the process of getting quotes for a new boiler and have had two engineers out today. One said regulations stated that a power flush was required on a new boiler installation. The other said a power flush wasn't necessary as he was putting an inhibitor into the system. Is there any right or wrong here? Are both acceptable or one better than the other. Our system was installed thirteen years ago and has never had either.
 
Sponsored Links
I'm in the process of getting quotes for a new boiler and have had two engineers out today. One said regulations stated that a power flush was required on a new boiler installation. The other said a power flush wasn't necessary as he was putting an inhibitor into the system. Is there any right or wrong here? .
One is right and one is wrong
 
Thanks for your reply. Can I just check to be sure, is the first one right and the second one wrong or is it the other way around?!
 
Plumber number one is selling you a power flush. Number two is confused.

I wouldn't be looking to power flush a youngish system like yours, unless rads were cold at the bottom, and the water was dark and gritty when drained out. Has the system's inhibitor levels been maintained during it's life?

Get plumber number three to do a chemical flush and fit an in-line filter for the belt and braces approach.
 
Sponsored Links
To be honest I don't think the system has ever had any inhibitor in it! The water which has been drained off in the past during repairs had been quite black, almost oily, although the radiators have always been hot all over. No. 3 will hopefully be out tomorrow, so will see what he says.

In all fairness, No. 1 is only charing £100 more to do a Power Flush and fit a Worcester Bosch, whereas No. 2 is providing an inhibitor and Valliant pro, so the fact he is charging for a power flush doesn't bother us - it's more what's best for the system in the long run.

Thank you for your reply by the way!
 
The requirement is for the boiler to be fitted to a CLEAN system.

A power flush is one method of cleaning ( usually the best! ).

All installers must add inhibitor to comply with manufacturer's requirements.

The first installer is clearly going to the best job. The second seems to be going to cut corners!

Whoever you choose make them give you an WRITTEN guarantee that they will be responsible for ANY problems caused by dirt in the system.

I would be interested to see if the second would do that!

Did either check the colour of the water or ask you about it?

I quote the same price and do whatever is required so in effect average the cleaning cost ( to BS7593:1992 ) over several jobs. Thats based on all rads being working apparently properly.

If there were serious known circulation problems then I would add something extra to the quote.

Tony
 
Thanks for your reply, Tony. I'm half tempted to go with No. 1 anyway as he' supplying a Worcester Bosch si, where as No. 2 is supplying a Valliant protec which I understand is one of their more basic models. Also, No. 1 has said he can take condensate pipe along the back of one of our units and into kitchen waste pipe to reduce the amount of pipework outside which can freeze, whereas No. 2 has the pipework running along the outside of the house. No. 3 is presently 20 mins late, so fingers crossed he is just running later rather than a no show.
 
I'm in the process of getting quotes for a new boiler and have had two engineers out today. One said regulations stated that a power flush was required on a new boiler installation. The other said a power flush wasn't necessary as he was putting an inhibitor into the system. Is there any right or wrong here? .
One is right and one is wrong
meant First one .. etc. :oops:
 
Thanks for your replies (really appreciated) which have certainly helped. No. 3 has been out now and said pretty much the same as No. 1 and chose to provide same boiler, both come with recommendations, can do week after next, so probably down to price now.
 
To be honest I don't think the system has ever had any inhibitor in it! The water which has been drained off in the past during repairs had been quite black, almost oily, although the radiators have always been hot all over.

In that case do a power flush.

CH systems cost £1000s. Inhibitor costs £12. You must replace the inhibitor if you drain your system, otherwise it's like driving your car in winter with no antifreeze. Asking for trouble. Expensive trouble.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top