Which tool would you recommend?

[Shengis]

Ok, i'm going to replace the taps in my bathroom in the near future as they leak like buggery and really I want a mixer/shower tap on the bath. Access to the basins not too bad but the taps on the bath are right in the corner of the room, close to the wall. So basically, i've noticed in Wickes that there are 2 types of backnut spanner available, the the old skool forked ones and the newer (i presume?) tommy bar style. Which will work better/easier do you think? Also, what size are the back nuts on bath taps? Cheers.

 

[oilman]

The one you haven't got will be easier to use than the one you have just used to round the nuts off, and graze your knuckles.

 

[Bas]

Look on ebay for basin wrench - you will get both types for the same as one from a DIY shop. My favourite is a Monument Basin Wrench

 

[opps]

don't forget to take your watch off first or risk scratching the glass

 

[Shengis]

The one you haven't got will be easier to use than the one you have just used to round the nuts off, and graze your knuckles.

don't forget to take your watch off first or risk scratching the glass

Aint it the troof Years of working on cars has taught me that much

Look on ebay for basin wrench - you will get both types for the same as one from a DIY shop. My favourite is a Monument Basin Wrench

Would that be the double ended 'bent prong' type? Thats what I was thinking of getting as it has 2 sizes for the nuts but i'm unsure wether there is enough clearance to turn it as the taps are up against a wall, if that makes sense? That was the only reason I was thinking of the so-called adjustable ones BUT im pretty sure the ones in wickes will only take upto a 1/2" nut? Hence also needing to know the nut size for a bath tap, which I would imagine would be 3/4".

But cheers for the replies so far

 

[scatmanjohn]

I have used a few types in the past but this one is the best IMHO.

 

[Paul Barker]

whether rightly or wrongly I call that a Canadian Basin wrench. The forked type can sometimes be easier to use in a bath situation for the tap connector and a box spanner for the back nut. Sometimes I fart about trying to not drop each of these until I have that back tap done. Don't forget to remove the overflow pipe and the front tap pipework first or you haven't a cats chance in hell. With some older baths you don't have a cats chance anyway and have on;y two options, enjoy your existing taps or remove your bath.

 

[Paul Barker]

I don't ever seem to find time to get around to these typoe of jobs you are talking about, too many boilers to fit. I don't think you'd want to pay the equivalent amount of money per time spent farting about at the back of your bath that we make from boilers, which we have payed a lot of money out to be ablke to fit so we are jolly well not going to miss one so we can get make your taps look more pretty.

 

[scatmanjohn]

I don't ever seem to find time to get around to these typoe of jobs you are talking about, too many boilers to fit. I don't think you'd want to pay the equivalent amount of money per time spent farting about at the back of your bath that we make from boilers, which we have payed a lot of money out to be ablke to fit so we are jolly well not going to miss one so we can get make your taps look more pretty.

What are you going on about Paul.

 

[Paul Barker]

changing bath taps I don't get time to do.

I find time to fit boilers.

 

[Nige F]

But for us Non-Corgi dino`s that`s all that`s left@ Polish Rates.......Pass the Luger

 

[ChrisR]

One problem is that there's been NO standard size over the years, so when I was doing bathrooms I had 3 diffferent fixed basini wrenches. One Monument, one cheap (blue) one which is tighter and another blue one squashed a bit more.
That means the adjustable ones are good. The ones with springs are great if you can get them on, which can be a real difficulty. They do come in two sizes of jaw - you need about 25mm opening for 1/2" taps and 32 for 3/4".
The fixed ones are easier to use - at least they're rigid, if a bit short for baths.

One snag with the Monument unsprung one (which is the slimmest) is that there's no means to pull the "finger"(=the removable claw part) onto the "thumb", unless you use a piece of string which can save the day.
This is gonna be hard to draw: you need a neat loop round the finger, with the string then going between the pivot pin and the "thumb". WHile you're holding the spanner up it IS possible to pull on the string at the same time to get it to grip. Once it's gripping it stays gripped so you can reach for another tool with your other hand to twist the handle...

You can also use the string to tie the third size of finger to the tool...

 

[Shengis]

Well i've now managed to borrow (ok scrounge) one of the adjustable types, and i've got to say after testing it on the new tap it does seem to grip a lot better than its flimsy appearance would have you believe

Wether it'll be easy to use in practice is another matter but we shall see. Next problem i've got is getting the gloss paint off the pipes that some clever buggers painted em with

Personally I think the water companies should come and fit my new taps for free, seeing as a leaking tap wastes water and its in so short supply in the SE

 

[Paul Barker]

gloss paint, drain water out, heat paint with burner 'till it blisters and burns a touch, cleans off easily with green scouring pad or wire wool.

The fixed tap spanners are designed to be adjusted with a lump hammer.

 

[gcol]

I find a box spanner gives you the most torque.
The last troublesome set of bath taps I had to change were fitted to a cast iron bath and were almost welded on. The overflow looked like it was kinda melted to the fitting, so I couldn't replace that. I ended up grinding the top of the taps off and punching them through from the top. There was brass filings everywhere, but it only took about 15 mins. Wish I'd have done it in the first place.