Ah, you see, I use my festool more than the Makita, Makita 36v is for flats etc, Festool is Domestic, mostly kitchens mind
Widening space for washing machine?
- Thread starter Keitai
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Deleted member 174758
I'm trying to figure out how cheap a blade you want to use with a plunging rail saw.
For a reasonable cut you need to use something like a 40 to 50 tooth blade - and DW happen to do a nice little 165mm 40t blade (DT10640-QZ) which I can generally pick up for £11 to £14. That is about the same price as the 24t version (DT10624-QZ) - just in case you want a faster, rougher cut. In any case for rougher work I just wouldn't use a plunge saw
I actually use the cordless tool far more than the corded tools. If nothing else it gets round the need for regular PAT testing and carrying 110v cables (only to find they are too short, or the supply is ropey)
For a reasonable cut you need to use something like a 40 to 50 tooth blade - and DW happen to do a nice little 165mm 40t blade (DT10640-QZ) which I can generally pick up for £11 to £14. That is about the same price as the 24t version (DT10624-QZ) - just in case you want a faster, rougher cut. In any case for rougher work I just wouldn't use a plunge saw
I actually use the cordless tool far more than the corded tools. If nothing else it gets round the need for regular PAT testing and carrying 110v cables (only to find they are too short, or the supply is ropey)
Ok so just take out central support panel like foxholes said. Perhaps some supporting baton at back.
in circled photo both sides of cupboard (with euro hinges in) has holes all over. Can this be replaced or holes covered with a strip glued on?
in circled photo both sides of cupboard (with euro hinges in) has holes all over. Can this be replaced or holes covered with a strip glued on?
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Deleted member 174758
You can buy purpose made plugs for the task, also self adhesive cover pieces (called FastCaps) or even use coloured wax, mixed to match as required. You can also fill with a near match 2-pack wood filler then tone in with coloured timber repair pens from firms such as Konig. Lots of ways to do neat repairs
As a handyman you really need to learn about a few of these techniques, so take a good look around the Konig website
As a handyman you really need to learn about a few of these techniques, so take a good look around the Konig website
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I find the Trend Craft Triple Chip Blades good for most things, most of the stuff I do is Finish work. A pack of three from FFX "bought this morning" was £27, so what's that £9 a blade, singularly they are £12ish.
I have got loads of Festool Blades of varying teeth, but they sit in the box, blunt, I just buy the Craft Blades now.
Incidentally, I use the Festool Plunge saw on site because I have the Festool M Class and that's 110v so need a lead anyway.
When filling holes in tiles, I often use water based tubes of artists' paints and mix them in with 2 pack filler. It remains tackier than regular 2K filler but can, eventually, be sanded or chiselled back. If the colour is very light, rather than using grey filler I use the Tetrosil Stone Fill, it is honey coloured and the catalyst is white, requiring less acrylic paint to be added.
You end up with a uniform colour but it is possible to tweak it if you want a multicolour/grained finish-but pretty hard to. In fact, I have never attempted to grain it, too much hassle, but doable.
If the kitchen has been fitted correctly there will already be supporting baton to any open expanse or worktop .
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Deleted member 174758
Ah yes, if...
Baton running length of worktop in the wall at the back?
Yes
Got a shelf that has an unequal gap, shall I scribe it to side of panel and cut with a trend triple chip blade in circular saw(as recommended above) and shift shelf over so
equal gap on both sides?
Also the unequal gap running down side of panel on wall which wasn't scribe to wall, is there a quick way to hide it? E.g a strip or something
He owes builder £1000 and isn't paying that's why they aren't coming back to fix this lot
equal gap on both sides?
Also the unequal gap running down side of panel on wall which wasn't scribe to wall, is there a quick way to hide it? E.g a strip or something
He owes builder £1000 and isn't paying that's why they aren't coming back to fix this lot
You will need to ensure that you make a better job than the builder, or they won't pay you either.
No baton, could one be fitted underneath the middle upright removed?
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Deleted member 174758
Good job. I can't stand musical worktops!
There should be a timber batten fixed to the wall. TBH one of your photos seems to show just such a batten
Either my age/eyesight is catching up with me or we are trying to cover a number of issues here.
The original photos were related to fitting another washing machine under a worktop. That photograph shows a single shelved narrow cupboard to the right-hand end.
The next set of photos show, what appears to be, a double height cupboard with what I refer to as wine racking shelves to the left of it. Meanwhile we are still talking about the washing machine gap and now discussing covering some holes in a door frame.
Next set of photos, at post #24 we are back to talking about a baton under the worktop. Which I presumed meant under the washing machine worktop. Post #26 we are talking about an uneven shelf, (presumably in the double height cupboard but could be in a bedroom 3 doors away for all we know!), then we are back to a photo under A worktop which isn't next to the wine rack cupboard because that panel is grey and the ones under the worktop are white. Then it's a photo of the side of a cupboard which needed scribing to the wall on installation!
My head is spinning! I can't keep up with this jumping about from one subject to another without a rational explanation of where we are each time. It's like listening to a conversation between a couple of women who know exactly what each is talking about but to a bloke it's a top-secret code they are using!
What is the present position regarding the original enquiry about fitting another washing machine under a worktop?
Please, can someone explain before I drink a bottle of scotch instead of a glass!
The original photos were related to fitting another washing machine under a worktop. That photograph shows a single shelved narrow cupboard to the right-hand end.
The next set of photos show, what appears to be, a double height cupboard with what I refer to as wine racking shelves to the left of it. Meanwhile we are still talking about the washing machine gap and now discussing covering some holes in a door frame.
Next set of photos, at post #24 we are back to talking about a baton under the worktop. Which I presumed meant under the washing machine worktop. Post #26 we are talking about an uneven shelf, (presumably in the double height cupboard but could be in a bedroom 3 doors away for all we know!), then we are back to a photo under A worktop which isn't next to the wine rack cupboard because that panel is grey and the ones under the worktop are white. Then it's a photo of the side of a cupboard which needed scribing to the wall on installation!
My head is spinning! I can't keep up with this jumping about from one subject to another without a rational explanation of where we are each time. It's like listening to a conversation between a couple of women who know exactly what each is talking about but to a bloke it's a top-secret code they are using!
What is the present position regarding the original enquiry about fitting another washing machine under a worktop?
Please, can someone explain before I drink a bottle of scotch instead of a glass!
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