Will a new PCB fix this?

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Hi can anyone help? I have a Baxi 105e combi boiler and have been told that I may need a new PCB which costs £150, I’m happy to pay that but am just worried that it may not be the problem and I can’t really afford for it not to be.

The problem is that in the last 3 years the heating has only been tepid. I’ve ensured the room and individual radiator thermostats are turned up to maximum as well as the heating and hot water temperature dials on the boiler but the heating is still only warm to the touch. What’s odd though is that when I had the lounge plastered last year and the lounge radiator was taken off the heating in the rest of the house worked perfectly, when it was put back on though all the radiators went back to tepid. The same happened when I had the bedroom radiator taken off, all radiators were boiling hot but then when it was put back on they all went tepid again.

Does anyone know if this could be a problem that would be resolved with a new PCB?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
Silvana :confused: :confused:
 
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What’s odd though is that when I had the lounge plastered last year and the lounge radiator was taken off the heating in the rest of the house worked perfectly, when it was put back on though all the radiators went back to tepid. The same happened when I had the bedroom radiator taken off, all radiators were boiling hot but then when it was put back on they all went tepid again.
That's saying "Don't buy a pcb" try turning the lounge and bedroom radiators off, one valve on each rad turned off will do it. Then see what happens with the other rads.
 
Have you checked some basics? such as your system pressure being correct, thermostats all turned up, radiators fully open etc. etc.?

When you turn the CH on, do the two large pipes get as hot as you'd like your radiators?

What appears to be the problem? Are you not warm enough, or do you believe the radiators need to be banging hot in order to work?

The latter is not necessarily true, you see...
 
Thanks I had a heating engineer who looked at it and said I need a new PCB but because I am actually getting some heat I did wonder if that would work. If the PCB was faulty would you not get no heat at all? I'm just worried as £150 is a lot if it doesn't work and that's just for the part. I presume he's tried turning the radiators off to see what effect that would have as I have explained the problem and he spent ages looking at the system but will ask him when he comes back. Do you have any idea if it's not the PCB what it could be? All the usual checks boiler pressure, thermostats have been checked and are fine. I'm not actually using it now but am trying to get it fixed for the winter as it has not heated the house up at all in previous years.
 
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Save yourself some time before he comes again, and turn the heating on.

Then, after an hour, walk round and feel the radiators.

Feel the larger pipes under the boiler and see if they are hot.

If they aren't hot, then turn off radiators one at a time, as stated.

It could be all sorts of things, and without being there, it's hard to say, but its rarely a PCB fault with any boiler other than an Ideal Isar...

You've obviously employed the gentleman, where's your faith?

Have you considered joining a Homecare agreement? Spread that £150 over the year as a monthly premium, and call British Gas as much as you want
 
.....and be prepared to take another day off work for every time they come and can't fix it...... Which will be often.
 
Not always the case though, is it?

The problem your experiencing sounds like basics to me, it's either not producing enough heat, or the said heat is not circulating.

If the heat is not being produced, we need to investigate why.

If the heat is being produced, but not circulating, then we can eliminate the ignition & temperature side of the boiler, and focus on your system & pump.

There is always the possibility your boiler is undersized for your property aswell, and could be the reason when radiators are isolated, the system performs better...

It's not the best boiler in the world, but it's a good little boiler. Try some basics yourself before splashing out.

Are your radiators cold at the top, or bottom? Have you bled them? Has your system water been treated?

Has your system been piped correctly?
 
Thanks I had a heating engineer who looked at it and said I need a new PCB... I'm just worried as £150 is a lot if it doesn't work and that's just for the part.
Some people might argue that a competent heating engineer would have checked everything else first, and only blamed the PCB if everything else proved to be fine. If so, would he really be right to charge you if his diagnosis turned out to be wrong and the new and costly PCB made no difference? On the other hand, I wouldn't like to be the engineer left with an un-needed and un-returnable PCB mouldering in my stock.

If the PCB was faulty would you not get no heat at all?
No, it's not as black and white as that, sadly. And sometimes faults are intermittent or only occur when particular components are especially hot or cold, etc.

PCB faults in boilers and other white goods are rare, in my (fairly limited) experience, but they often get the blame when the fault's unusual and seems to defy logic. Do what the others say, and explore all other possibilities first.

A second opinion from another heating engineer might save you money overall.
 
True story... Receptionist at work bought new house and decided to get Homecare as both her and husband are utterly clueless about anything vaguely technical.

Within a year, they'd told her that her 10-year old boiler was BER and sold her a new one, and she had to take a week off work to be around while they fitted it.

Needless to say, the new one breaks down nearly as often as the old :rolleyes:

C
 
OP, when the boiler is in heating mode, what LED are illuminated?
 
I'd get a second opinion if I were you. Sounds like the old PCB scam. He pretends to change the board and charges you £250 - then rides off into the sunset.
 
yeah joe-90 must be that scam. :rolleyes: changed a few 105 pcb that do the same issue. usually when watching the LED displays they suddenly get to around 50 degree. the whole LED display goes blank and then carry on. or needs a reset or will flash 50 or will work ok. but obviously you should take advice on here to gospel from people who seem to be clairvoyants. and can see what your boilers actually doing. rather than the guy thats being employed, being second guessed by some internet idiots.
 
Some people might argue that a competent heating engineer would have checked everything else first, and only blamed the PCB if everything else proved to be fine.

A second opinion from another heating engineer might save you money overall.

All that the OP has said indicates to me that he did NOT pay him and so ( quite rightly perhaps ) he mentioned the worst case scenario.

I always charge to diagnose faults!

Only chancers are prepared to go and diagnose a fault free and give a price ( inflated ) to repair ( knowing they will only get a few takers ). Those if they have any sense will NOT say what the fault really is in case the owner decides to DIY the repair himself. In thats situation my sympathy goes to the otherwise cowboy repairer!

Tony
 
If you took your car to the garage and he said "I know what's wrong with it but I'm not telling you", What would you say to him? :rolleyes:
 

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